Bottom Feeder  5.10a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Norman Boles, Brian Bennett, Stu Ritchie (1984) Submitted By:  Bryan G on Jul 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bottom Feeder

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a single pitch route in the middle of the North Face Apron. It is between Stupid Pet Tricks and Cat Dancing. I feel like in most climbing venues this route would get an "R", but I guess compared to most other Valley slab climbs, 5 bolts in 170 feet is pretty well protected. The bolts are all new and the rock quality is flawless.

I found the first 25 feet up to a dish/ledge to be the scariest. Here you can get a couple tiny wires which are more for your peace of mind than actual protection. The moves out of the dish and up to the first bolt aren't actually that bad thanks to a couple good edges. Once you've got the first bolt the route is much less serious.

Continue up past a overlap with an old piton (can be backed up by 1" cam out right). At the 4th bolt, which is beneath another small overlap I traversed left to big holds and then up. The last stretch before the anchor looks kind of intimidating because it is steeper. Climb right a bit and then up and good features will appear as you need them.

Even though this is a long pitch it can be rapped with one 60m rope by swinging over to the first pitch anchor of Cat Dancing. There is also another pitch (or pitches?) which has been added to the top of Bottom Feeder. Looks good but we didn't try it, not sure of the rating.

Protection 

A few tiny pieces and a 1" cam plus a handful of draws.