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Up Valley Goes Downtown 
Urban Fringe 
VHS or Beta 

Bottom Feeder 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Dan Durland
Page Views: 799
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 23, 2010
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Bottom Feeder starts atop the flat boulder, climbs...

Description 

Though slighted in some guidebooks, this is an outstanding, gymanstic line on beautiful rock, every bit as worthy as its famous neighbors to the left. With a burly crux at the third bolt, this is certainly a power route, but an engaing, slightly overhanging headwall with stellar pockets keeps things interesting until the very end.

Scamper onto the large flat boulder and squirm out to the lip. A big reach leads onto the hanging corner below the roof and a left-ward traverse. Big reaches to obvious jugs work right over the ceiling to a precarious stance on the lip. The airy crux comes in reaching the big jugs above the third bolt. A long stretch of big athletic moves between pumping pockets leads up the steep wall, ultimately offering some great rest opportunities. After passing a cool hueco, a brief slab cux guards the anchor.


Location 

On the Ejection Wall, immediately right of My Generation.


Protection 

~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.



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By Darryl Roth
Nov 14, 2010

The F.A. was by Dan Durland. I also thought that route was good, though still a bit dirty right through the thuggish moves at the crux back when it was done. BTW, I set some anchors not too far to the right. It's totally open. Definitely 5.13 up there, but getting through the roof... Possibly you can pull that Mr. Anderson.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 15, 2010

There were ferns growing in the jugs at the lip, so I guess this hadn't been done in a while. Too bad; it's among the best of the grade at Shelf, IMO.