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Though slighted in some guidebooks, this is an outstanding, gymanstic line on beautiful rock, every bit as worthy as its famous neighbors to the left. With a burly crux at the third bolt, this is certainly a power route, but an engaing, slightly overhanging headwall with stellar pockets keeps things interesting until the very end.
Scamper onto the large flat boulder and squirm out to the lip. A big reach leads onto the hanging corner below the roof and a left-ward traverse. Big reaches to obvious jugs work right over the ceiling to a precarious stance on the lip. The airy crux comes in reaching the big jugs above the third bolt. A long stretch of big athletic moves between pumping pockets leads up the steep wall, ultimately offering some great rest opportunities. After passing a cool hueco, a brief slab cux guards the anchor.
On the Ejection Wall, immediately right of My Generation.
~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
|Comments on Bottom Feeder
|By Darryl Roth|
Nov 14, 2010
The F.A. was by Dan Durland. I also thought that route was good, though still a bit dirty right through the thuggish moves at the crux back when it was done. BTW, I set some anchors not too far to the right. It's totally open. Definitely 5.13 up there, but getting through the roof... Possibly you can pull that Mr. Anderson.
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 15, 2010
There were ferns growing in the jugs at the lip, so I guess this hadn't been done in a while. Too bad; it's among the best of the grade at Shelf, IMO.
|By Will Anglin|
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 18, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
I feel like this route is just as hard as My Generation (which I think is .13a). My Generation has multiple cruxes, where on Bottom Feeder, after you stick the crux 2-finger pocket by bolt 3, you can pretty much check out for the rest of the route.
Both routes are great!