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|Submitted By:||J. DuBois on Apr 3, 2004|
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By Josh Janes
May 27, 2014
The descent from the summit is via three rappels down the Langdon Route. A single 80m cord works, and a 70 almost works: A bit of easy scrambling across a ledge after the first rappel off the top is required, the second rappel is no problem, but on the final rappel a 70 will leave you 15-20' short, but some creative problem solving can make it work.
Every anchor has 4 bolts - three of which are vintage and one of which is modern - but the real issue is the cluster of bleached, crispy webbing woven together: It held my weight in 2014 but I'm sure I weakened it enough that it will fail in a puff of sand and dry nylon for the next poor soul who dares trust it.
By Steve G Walker
Aug 7, 2015
|I don't believe Jim Langdon ever got to the top of Bottleneck Peak. I don't want to make a Billy Owen or Cesare Maestri controversy out of this, but those "vintage bolts" on the raps are in all probability ours (Steve Walker and Bert Stolp). They should be lead-sleeved Star pound-ins with some kind of funky home made hanger. We chose the same line in 1985 that Langdon did in the 70s (quite logical when viewed from the nearest approach of the road), but he only went as far as the first pitch and then rapped off of a single baby angle bearing a biner that had his initials stamped on it. There was no gear found after that and certainly no other rap slings at the summit- we looked all around the rim because we were curious if anybody else had ever been up there. Bjornstad credited us with the second ascent and I never made a big deal about it but in recent years I keep hearing Langdon this and Langdon that and it simply isn't true- I hope your reading this Jim! If you have questions I'm at firstname.lastname@example.org SW|