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Bottleneck Peak

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Alaska Gold T 
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Bottleneck Peak  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J. DuBois on Apr 3, 2004
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This is the Impressive formation just south of the San rafeal river campground. It is home to some obscure but awesome routes.The North Face holds a couple classics, some of them products of the diabolical Mr. Pennings and friends.

Getting There 

From I-70 take ranch exit 129. Follw this dirt road north toward the buckhorn wash.Park at a turn off just south about 18 miles to a sign locating the peak on the west side of the road. It's only .8mi further to the blm campground with toilets, and tables.Follow a major wash west towards the base, and bust up through the Chinle.Easier than it looks.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bottleneck Peak:
Zoomerang   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches   
Tippin The Bottle   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Classics in Bottleneck Peak

Featured Route For Bottleneck Peak
Justin on the beautiful "Banana Splitter"...

Tippin The Bottle 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Bottleneck Peak
Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crac...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Bottleneck Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Moving up the 3rd pitch, Langdon Route. Photo by P...
Moving up the 3rd pitch, Langdon Route. Photo by P...

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By Josh Janes
May 27, 2014
The descent from the summit is via three rappels down the Langdon Route. A single 80m cord works, and a 70 almost works: A bit of easy scrambling across a ledge after the first rappel off the top is required, the second rappel is no problem, but on the final rappel a 70 will leave you 15-20' short, but some creative problem solving can make it work.

Every anchor has 4 bolts - three of which are vintage and one of which is modern - but the real issue is the cluster of bleached, crispy webbing woven together: It held my weight in 2014 but I'm sure I weakened it enough that it will fail in a puff of sand and dry nylon for the next poor soul who dares trust it.
By Steve G Walker
Aug 7, 2015
I don't believe Jim Langdon ever got to the top of Bottleneck Peak. I don't want to make a Billy Owen or Cesare Maestri controversy out of this, but those "vintage bolts" on the raps are in all probability ours (Steve Walker and Bert Stolp). They should be lead-sleeved Star pound-ins with some kind of funky home made hanger. We chose the same line in 1985 that Langdon did in the 70s (quite logical when viewed from the nearest approach of the road), but he only went as far as the first pitch and then rapped off of a single baby angle bearing a biner that had his initials stamped on it. There was no gear found after that and certainly no other rap slings at the summit- we looked all around the rim because we were curious if anybody else had ever been up there. Bjornstad credited us with the second ascent and I never made a big deal about it but in recent years I keep hearing Langdon this and Langdon that and it simply isn't true- I hope your reading this Jim! If you have questions I'm at steven.g.walker@gmail.com SW
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