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This is the Impressive formation just south of the San rafeal river campground. It is home to some obscure but awesome routes.The North Face holds a couple classics, some of them products of the diabolical Mr. Pennings and friends.
From I-70 take ranch exit 129. Follw this dirt road north toward the buckhorn wash.Park at a turn off just south about 18 miles to a sign locating the peak on the west side of the road. It's only .8mi further to the blm campground with toilets, and tables.Follow a major wash west towards the base, and bust up through the Chinle.Easier than it looks.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bottleneck Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bottleneck Peak:
Zoomerang 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 4 pitches
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Featured Route For Bottleneck Peak
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Bottleneck Peak
Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crac...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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