Bottled Up Warrior 5.12-
| 853 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Blake Cash on May 10, 2011 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
Description Start on the left end of the right bunker on an arete like feature. Easy slabish climbing leads to a stance below a roof where you will want to put an extended draw. Blindly reach up to good jugs and start trending left towards a chain draw (the left chain). From here you are in a decent jug below the chain and have 2 options: 1. Make one move left to another good incut then trend right on crimps to a jug which makes the route 12a/b or 2. from the jug go straight up on bad sloping edges, eliminating the jug out left for a 12cish crux...your choice. From here move up towards a small roof on side pulls and underclings where you'll clip one more bolt (if it's extended you can clip from low, really nice to have pre-hung). Then pull the roof on jugs, and tic-tac to the chains.
Location Right bunker on the left side. The start is located by a right facing corner/arete.
Protection Bolts with fixed draws in the roof. You need about 7 draws with extended ones in the roof and at the last bolt.
|