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The Right Bunker
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Bottled Up Warrior 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,698
Submitted By: Blake Cash on May 10, 2011

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Description 

Start on the left end of the right bunker on an arete like feature. Easy slabish climbing leads to a stance below a roof where you will want to put an extended draw. Blindly reach up to good jugs and start trending left towards a chain draw (the left chain). From here you are in a decent jug below the chain and have 2 options: 1. Make one move left to another good incut then trend right on crimps to a jug which makes the route 12a/b or 2. from the jug go straight up on bad sloping edges, eliminating the jug out left for a 12cish crux...your choice.

From here move up towards a small roof on side pulls and underclings where you'll clip one more bolt. Then pull the roof on jugs, and tic-tac to the chains.

Location 

Right bunker on the left side. The start is located by a right facing corner/arete.

Protection 

Bolts with fixed climb tech draws...you don't need any quick draws for this route anymore.


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By Austin Howell
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Jul 7, 2014

you need quick draws for this route.

unless you feel like locking horns with a 20' runout while skipping the last 3 bolts....