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Layback crux above triangle block. Fun thigh/knee jams. Without big cams (#5 or #6) or very small cams (<=#1 c3), it would be difficult to protect.
Descend by walking left to Uberfall Descent
The obvious wide crack just past the Uberfall and right of Ken's Crack.
set of nuts, #5 or #6 for offwidth, some small cams (#1 c3 and smaller) prevent run-out
Victor on Boston - great work!
Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below t...
Bostonian knee bar
Oct 6, 2007
A few years back somebody fell from the offwidth section, broke a cam (yes...broke) and decked..which resulted in their death. RIP
|By Michael G|
Mar 16, 2009
I used a green alien and a green/blue hybrid alien to protect the first part of the crux, and a #10 BD stopper in a crack off to the left about 7 feet above that.
|By Ross Purnell|
Jun 22, 2009
Despite the grade, this is a difficult (off width) climb to protect. I don't recommend leading it.
From: Great Neck, New york
May 13, 2010
I lead this climb as my first trad lead...not a good idea really. The placements are somewhat shady, and the moves are awkward. Wouldnt recommend it as a lead.
|By worth russell|
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 28, 2011
Did this climb on lead while first learning. Not a fun experience, and I wouldn't suggest it with all the other good climbs around.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011
It was worth top roping, but would never consider it on lead without a pocket full of big bros. As already stated, worth restating, with all the other good climbing around I'd not risk injury leading this as a 5.5 climber. There's an easy walkoff and tree for a top rope. be smart.
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13
We did it on top rope on July 4th. The boys got to the top and seemed to have fun with it - I did well on the bottom part and made it higher than I thought I would (being just my second outdoor climb) but got stuck a few feet from top. Definitely looking forward to get back and get to the top! :)
|By Aaron L.|
May 17, 2012
Led this one on our way out from some of the bigger stuff. Not as much fun as I had hoped, and pretty terrifying at some points. I used a couple of really small cams to protect and wished that I had a huge bomber cam to place the whole way up.
Interestingly, after I led it three of my buddies did it on top rope and all four of us managed to do it four different ways. Some opted for lay-back, some face climbing, and some jamming. It was really neat to see the variation in technique on just 25 feet of rock.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13
This climb could be very dangerous if you're not comfortable climbing above the grade and maybe have some previous off-width experience. I have seen people do the crux a handful of different ways. The crux is well-protected if you get a little creative, however the climbing down lower is more run-out.
Aug 5, 2013
Just lead this sucker yesterday, but I did it on top rope last year. Since this is one of my first leads I'd say do not go on this if you're a beginner and need a little more confidence to get through the crux. It's a lot tougher than the grading would indicate. Though the good thing is there is plenty of different ways to get through the climb. Just be sure to have a full rack as there are plenty of ways of protecting the climb.