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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 T 
Apoplexy T 
BB Route T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Boston T,TR 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
CC Route T 
Charie TR 
Clover T 
Coronary T,TR 
Crimson Corner T 
Das Wiggles T 
DD Route T 
Dirty Chimney T 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Eyesore T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Fitschen's Folly T,TR 
Flake, The T,TR 
Handy Andy T 
Harvard T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR 
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 
Junior T,TR 
Katzenjammer T 
Ken's Crack T 
Keyhole T 
Laurel T 
Low Exposure T 
Lower Eaves T 
Mitty Mouse  T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Phoebe T,TR 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Rhododendron T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Shitty Mitty T,TR 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Squiggles T 
Squiggles Direct T,TR 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie A T 
Trapped Like a Rat T 
Uberfall Descent T 
Walter Mitty T 
Yale T 
Unsorted Routes:

Boston 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dick Hirschland and Bonnie Prudden (1950)
Page Views: 2,767
Submitted By: coolaid on Sep 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Bostonian knee bar

Description 

Layback crux above triangle block. Fun thigh/knee jams. Without big cams (#5 or #6) or very small cams (<=#1 c3), it would be difficult to protect.

Descend by walking left to Uberfall Descent


Location 

The obvious wide crack just past the Uberfall and right of Ken's Crack.


Protection 

set of nuts, #5 or #6 for offwidth, some small cams (#1 c3 and smaller) prevent run-out



Photos of Boston Slideshow Add Photo
Victor on Boston - great work!
Victor on Boston - great work!
Nearing the top of Boston
Nearing the top of Boston
Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below the crux, August 2012
Guillaume Frechette looking for small gear below t...
Bostonian awkwardness
Bostonian awkwardness
Comments on Boston Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 12, 2014
By Rafiki
Oct 6, 2007

A few years back somebody fell from the offwidth section, broke a cam (yes...broke) and decked..which resulted in their death. RIP

By Michael G
Mar 16, 2009

I used a green alien and a green/blue hybrid alien to protect the first part of the crux, and a #10 BD stopper in a crack off to the left about 7 feet above that.

By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Jun 22, 2009

Despite the grade, this is a difficult (off width) climb to protect. I don't recommend leading it.

By JakeL
From: Great Neck, New york
May 13, 2010

I lead this climb as my first trad lead...not a good idea really. The placements are somewhat shady, and the moves are awkward. Wouldnt recommend it as a lead.

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Mar 28, 2011

Did this climb on lead while first learning. Not a fun experience, and I wouldn't suggest it with all the other good climbs around.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011

It was worth top roping, but would never consider it on lead without a pocket full of big bros. As already stated, worth restating, with all the other good climbing around I'd not risk injury leading this as a 5.5 climber. There's an easy walkoff and tree for a top rope. be smart.

By RM11
Jul 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

We did it on top rope on July 4th. The boys got to the top and seemed to have fun with it - I did well on the bottom part and made it higher than I thought I would (being just my second outdoor climb) but got stuck a few feet from top. Definitely looking forward to get back and get to the top! :)

By Aaron L.
May 17, 2012

Led this one on our way out from some of the bigger stuff. Not as much fun as I had hoped, and pretty terrifying at some points. I used a couple of really small cams to protect and wished that I had a huge bomber cam to place the whole way up.
Interestingly, after I led it three of my buddies did it on top rope and all four of us managed to do it four different ways. Some opted for lay-back, some face climbing, and some jamming. It was really neat to see the variation in technique on just 25 feet of rock.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

This climb could be very dangerous if you're not comfortable climbing above the grade and maybe have some previous off-width experience. I have seen people do the crux a handful of different ways. The crux is well-protected if you get a little creative, however the climbing down lower is more run-out.

By Tsuason
Aug 5, 2013

Just lead this sucker yesterday, but I did it on top rope last year. Since this is one of my first leads I'd say do not go on this if you're a beginner and need a little more confidence to get through the crux. It's a lot tougher than the grading would indicate. Though the good thing is there is plenty of different ways to get through the climb. Just be sure to have a full rack as there are plenty of ways of protecting the climb.

By kenr
Jul 12, 2014

At last got the whole thing with no chimney-ing, squirming, or jamming whatsoever. Pretty enjoyable and satisfying that way.