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Boston Basin

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Aiguille de l'M 
Forbidden Peak 
Johannesberg Mountain 
Mount Buckner 
Mount Torment  
Sahale Peak 
Sharkfin Tower 

Boston Basin Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 8,870
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Mike McL on Jun 3, 2009
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Description 

Boston Basin lies within the heart of Washington's stunning North Cascades. The big attraction here is Forbidden Peak, particularly its West Ridge, which is included among Steck and Roper's 50 Classics. Other draws here include Sahale Peak, Boston Peak, Mount Buckner, Mount Torment, and Sharkfin Tower.

The objectives here are truly alpine, and most require some snow and/or glacier travel. Be prepared for inclement weather. This is the Cascades, right?

If you're not going car-to-car, permits are required to camp in Boston Basin.

For permit information, contact:

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/wil...

Wilderness Information Center
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
Phone: (360) 854-7245

Fred Beckey wrote the definitive three-part guide to the Cascades. The Boston Basin area is covered in Volume II. Jim Nelson's and Peter Potterfield's "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" (Volumes I and II) is also a great series.

Getting There 

Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. Drive 21.7 miles (according to the guidebook) on Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain. Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.

The approach to Boston Basin starts directly from the parking pullout. After a short while, the trail climbs very steeply uphill and is very eroded. Stay on the trail, crossing several streams. Continue switchbacking uphill until out of the trees. Boston Basin lies at about 5700' . Campsites and a composting toilet (best crap you'll ever take) are located in Boston Basin. Several options for campsites are available.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.3 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Boston Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Boston Basin:
North Face   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 1300'   Mount Buckner
Quien Sabe Glacier   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow PG13     Snow, Alpine   Sahale Peak
Southeast Ridge   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 200'   Sharkfin Tower
North Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Forbidden Peak
West Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500'   Forbidden Peak
Torment-Forbidden Traverse    5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade IV   Mount Torment
East Ridge Direct   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Forbidden Peak
Southeast Face   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'   Sharkfin Tower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Boston Basin

Featured Route For Boston Basin
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse seen from the top of Mt. Torment (For...

Torment-Forbidden Traverse 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Mount Torment
Traverses the jagged skyline from Mt. Torment to Forbidden Peak. From the base of Torment, ascend the S. Ridge or the SE face (both loose 4th/low 5th class) to a prominent grassy ledge leading to a V-shaped notch climbers right. Packs can be left here as you summit and downclimb (or rap, though downclimbing is manageable) back, eventually following the grassy ledge to the notch. From here, a wild overhanging rap on obvious slings takes one to the snow traverse on the North side [The entire trave...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Boston Basin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Boston Basin
Boston Basin
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning views from Boston Basin
Early morning views from Boston Basin
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning light on Johannesburg Mountain from below ...
Morning light on Johannesburg Mountain from below ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp overlooking Boston Basin.
Camp overlooking Boston Basin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching Boston Basin.  Forbidden Peak lies abo...
Approaching Boston Basin. Forbidden Peak lies abo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic view of Boston Basin from the trail.
Panoramic view of Boston Basin from the trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Campsites at Boston Basin.
Campsites at Boston Basin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some very cool igneous and mostly metamorphic geol...
Some very cool igneous and mostly metamorphic geol...

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