An enjoyable, overhanging arete route with holds on both sides of the arete. The crux comes between bolts 4 and 5 when pulling over the top of the arete. FAs rated this 5.11a but general consensus now is 5.10d.
This is the first route one encounters when approaching the wall via the standard trail down. Shown as route number 1 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Funny, I thought ridiculously highly of it. But then again, I'm fully tweaked. Cam
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Dec 31, 2008 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
I thought this was a fun route. The bottom part is pretty chossy, but so is the bottom of almost every route at the Overlook. The climbing between bolts two and five is cool and sustained but with several good rests. The top is much easier but still fun exposed arete slapping.
However, I do agree that many of the clips are in strange positions and difficult to see. I recall once looking around desperately for the next clip when super pumped, only to find it at waist level on the other side of the arete.