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 ADVANCED
The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T,S 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Bosch Blanket Bingo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat Thompson, spring 1998
Page Views: 3,259
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (139)
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Peter Dillon at the second overhang.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the [eighth] route from the right. It is a fun line with several variations. It can be done as a 5.8 if you take the easiest line, or a 5.10 if you take the hardest line.

This route is a bit of a squeeze job (stay left of the bolt line or you'll trespass on Topless Etiquette!) in between Topless Etiquette and Silver Glide. Not included in the Rossiter guide.

Climb straight up a face past three bolts. Move up right and reach left to clip the fourth bolt above the lip of a roof. You now have three options:

1. Traverse left to a good crack to surmount the roof (8).
2. Tackle the roof straight on via a finger pocket and a reach up left to the good crack (10b).
3. Climb the roof on the right (9).

Continue up to the second roof at the fifth bolt. You now have two options:

1. Move right around the roof using a groove (8).
2. Tackle the roof directly using thin holds (10b to 10d). The more you stay in line with the fifth bolt, the harder the climbing.

Continue up past a final bolt to the anchor.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with Topless Etiquette).



Photos of Bosch Blanket Bingo Slideshow Add Photo
Joe at the roof.
Joe at the roof.
Bosch Blanket Bingo.  Go left around the first overhang and right around the second overhang to do the route at 5.8.   <br /> <br />Tackle the first overhang directly (10b) and the second overhang directly (10b to 10d) to make it harder.
BETA PHOTO: Bosch Blanket Bingo. Go left around the first ove...
Joe leading Bosch Blanket Bingo.
Joe leading Bosch Blanket Bingo.
C. Love under the first overhang.
C. Love under the first overhang.
Chris leading Bosch Blanket Bingo.
Chris leading Bosch Blanket Bingo.
Comments on Bosch Blanket Bingo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 5, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Fairly decent route. I was able to place a few mid-sized cams after the bulge for added security.

By Friso Schlottau
Jan 1, 2001

5.8 or 5.10d, depending on whether you go around the bulge at mid-height, or go directly over it. First climb outside in 2001! Good to get out.

By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Nov 15, 2001

Did this route today, it is a little bit of a squeeze job if you don't follow the bolt line. The move at the 4th bolt seems harder than 5.10 straight up, very reachy, without getting into the crack at left. From here, fire straight over the little overhanging section, again very reachy. (Almost dyno for under 5'7".) A decent line, you could lead the whole crack with trad gear for a decent route as well.

By PATRICK THOMPSON
Mar 26, 2002

You can lead the crack with gear at about 5.7. This is how I got the anchors in for Bosch Blanket.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 6, 2002

After the crux this is a little runout, but the section that's runout it only about 5.5, if that. I liked this climb, slabby roof sections that have a mini-Yosemite feeling to them.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2003

I don't like this type of route because it feels contrived to follow the bolt line. If you stay right of the bolts, it's probably not even 5.9, but following them seemed harder than 5.9. An orange Alien can be slotted above the roof, or you can make some easy moves and clip the final bolt.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2003

A good climb though found it a bit confusing in knowing what the intent of the exact line is. The move at the fourth bolt is definitely 5.10 something if you don't use the crack. There is a small 2 finger pocket for your left hand to help you over the bulge but your all the holds for your left foot seem to be slanted in the wrong direction just when u need them. If you work your way up high on the bulge and reach for a second into the crack with your left hand, the move becomes much easier.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
May 7, 2004

Surprisingly large holds just below and over the fifth bolt.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climb! Fun rout the whole way up. I didn't think there was a 10d anywhere in the climb. A 10b at most was at the first overhang and maybe the second.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 9, 2007

If you are bored with clipping bolts, you can lead this one on trad gear. Gear to #2 cam....

By Rich Farnham
Jun 2, 2010

This didn't really feel like a route. It felt more like part of the Riviera grid-bolt system. Here's a line of bolts; do whatever moves seem interesting to you in the vicinity of these bolts. None of them really form a distinct route.

By Kevin Gabelman
Feb 21, 2011

As a new 5.9 leader, I found this route fun and varied. There are 2 steep portions with some slabby features before the run to the anchors :)

By Jonathan Lagoe
Jan 6, 2013

Contrived - and weird bolting.

By Roj
May 5, 2014

It was fun pulling the 2nd roof, but then it gets a bit runout to the last bolt. I would have liked to have a #1 or #2 Camalot.