One of the most amazing pitches at the Obed. Steep fun laybacking takes you up to and out a roof to an overhanging prow. Crafty body position gains you a no hands rest after the roof.
Prepare to bear down for a 5 or 6 move boulder problem on some of the tweakiest tweaks at Obed. This V5 (or so) sequence blocks entrance to some of the biggest jugs on the super steep and way exposed prow. I recommend mantling up over the anchors for a sit. It was onsighted by Katie Brown and she hardly broke a sweat.
Locate the obvious overhanging arete.
Is currently fixed (11/20/12) with Climb Tech perma draws. If working the route take a look at the draws and make sure the cables are not fraying. The draw on the crux bolt was removed due to 4-5 frayed ends that were super sharp and sticking out. Would cut the rope of a falling climber for sure. Don't assume fixed steel (or any) draws are totally bomber.
Easier if you skip the crux clip on redpoint.
Cleaned off Born on the 4th. These cables are fie...
|By Blake Cash|
May 9, 2011
I have to say it: my least favorite route at Y-12. Sandy, sharp, glued on jugs for the first half of the route. The roof is awkward and completely glued. Only the crux is amazing rock...and it's about 6 moves long. Then just more 5.11 to the anchor. Sure it's super long and on the proudest part of the cliff...but that's about it.