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Borderline 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 2004 Pat Munn, Mark Meschinelli
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: Matt Salter on Jun 21, 2011
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This description is only for the FIRST pitch. There is a second pitch, which, judging by its current state of filth, doesn't get done too often.

    The first pitch is excellent and tricky, with great protection where needed. It, along with Foreplay, is also a nice way to access the pillar pitch of It Don't Come Easy.

    Clip a bolt low to the ground, then move through a difficult boulder problem to easier ground. Meander up, straying left a bit at times, through easier terrain to a right facing corner at the top of the dike rock. Make the crux stand-up move, then follow the superb face and crack to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. 5.11


    Location 

    About 15 feet to the right of the right facing corner 10 feet off the ground (Foreplay), at a lone bolt. There is usually fierce groundcover at the start.


    Protection 

    Bolts and most of a full rack including a #3 Camalot size piece that is nice for the very top.



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