|Lotta Balls Wall
Just to the right of Black Magic a broken face and crack system that ascends the right edge of the Lotta Balls wall. This route is two pitches long and joins up with Black Magic at the top of the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 1: Begin on the ground under the boulder right of Black Magic. Make one reachy move to gain the face to the right of the corner. Follow this broken face up and through a roof, eventually arriving at a stance where lots of gear options present themselves. 5.8, 150' Pitch 2: Continue up the cracks above, moving through one somewhat blankish section with good pro, then stepping right to the arete, moving through a small bulge. From here, trend up and left, aiming for the top of Black Magic's second pitch. Pitches 3&4: Finish as per Black Magic.
Pro for this route should include a lot of small stuff- wires, Aliens, a Loweball or two. The biggest gear available is a #2 or #3 Camalot.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 16, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
One of Larry's hallmarks as a climber is his ability to sucker you into going out to a popular wall or crag, letting you think you're going to do some classic route (in this case, Black Magic at the Lotta Balls wall), but then at the last minute, saying "hey, i got an idea..." this is usually followed by him asking if i brought the lowe balls and/or giant cams, then snickering slightly if i forgot either saying something about how we wont need them anyway...
Thus, like many of Larry and I's first ascents, Borderline was born...it turned out to be much tamer than I thought, but the healthy exposure and tricky pro make this one a good route for experienced folks wanting to get on a route while waiting for Lotta Balls or Black Magic...