Borderline Direct  5.10b

399 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  FA: Harvey Carter, '80 (?) FFA: Earl Wiggins, '77 or '78?, Bob D'Antonio, '82? Submitted By:  Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Borderline Direct climbs up the cave-like feature ...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is a fun climb with good rock, but beware, it's harder than it looks from the ground. The climbing is technical and sustained for the first 30 feet, and gets steeper until you clear the overhang (which feels like a large roof at the lip). The first piton is good, but don't blow it getting there. I placed a #4 Camalot to protect the first move, but this soon becomes worthless, and you might want it higher up. Above the first piton, you can get a great #8 Stopper at the lip of the roof (and/or some cams), but this is an awkward and pumpy spot to place gear. You'll want it though, because the next fixed protection is a scary looking old bolt. Pull one or two more steep moves up the groove before the angle kicks back and the climbing becomes easy to the top. I was a little worried about a ground fall on this climb, but with a cool head and good placements, this really shouldn't happen.

Location 

This route climbs the big overhanging cave-like feature on the north end of Keyhole Rock, then continues up the groove/crack feature to a large ledge with a fixed anchor consisting of 2 pitons. I equipped the anchor with a new cordalette and rap ring on 10/31/08. Rappel off the east face.

Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. 2 pins. 2-pin anchor.

Photos of Borderline Direct Slideshow

Add Photo

Looking down on Bill Weiss, where the climbing get...