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North End Pinnacle
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Borderline Direct T 
Keyhole Route T 
Ziggy Stardust S 

Borderline Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Harvey Carter, '80 (?) FFA: Earl Wiggins, '77 or '78?, Bob D'Antonio, '82?
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2008

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Borderline Direct climbs up the cave-like feature ...
Seasonal Closures in place MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun climb with good rock, but beware, it's harder than it looks from the ground. The climbing is technical and sustained for the first 30 feet, and gets steeper until you clear the overhang (which feels like a large roof at the lip). The first piton is good, but don't blow it getting there. I placed a #4 Camalot to protect the first move, but this soon becomes worthless, and you might want it higher up. Above the first piton, you can get a great #8 Stopper at the lip of the roof (and/or some cams), but this is an awkward and pumpy spot to place gear. You'll want it though, because the next fixed protection is a scary looking old bolt. Pull one or two more steep moves up the groove before the angle kicks back and the climbing becomes easy to the top. I was a little worried about a ground fall on this climb, but with a cool head and good placements, this really shouldn't happen.


Location 

This route climbs the big overhanging cave-like feature on the north end of Keyhole Rock, then continues up the groove/crack feature to a large ledge with a fixed anchor consisting of 2 pitons. I equipped the anchor with a new cordalette and rap ring on 10/31/08. Rappel off the east face.


Protection 

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. 2 pins. 2-pin anchor.



Photos of Borderline Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down on Bill Weiss, where the climbing gets easy on Borderline Direct.
Looking down on Bill Weiss, where the climbing get...
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By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 22, 2010

Earl Wiggins freed this, I believe. Maybe in '78? I climbed it '80. I remember it being scary and serious.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 24, 2010

It felt pretty scary and serious to me, too, Allen. Although once I placed some gear, it felt reasonable. The line to the right, Borderline, also looks great but scary. It doesn't climb out the overhang but directly up the rounded arete to the right. I was wondering if this was the line you climbed? The Soft Touch guide says that Earl freed that one with Leonard and Mark in '77. I took the FA info on this route from the Soft Touch guide, as well.