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Middle Cathedral Rock
Routes Sorted
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Bircheff-Williams T 
Border Country T 
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Rainbow bridge S 
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Walk of Life T 

Border Country 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 1800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeremy Collins, Dana Drummond, Mikey Schaefer, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,039
Submitted By: Jer Collins on Jan 28, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Route lines on right side of Middle Cathedral

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wide open slab on the northwestern face of MC. Low angle to vertical corners and clean face on the lower half; steep and exposed on the upper half, following the path of least resistance on golden knobs and plates on impeccable rock.

70 bolts on 1800 feet of mostly face climbing. This route was established in memory of our friends Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, titled after Jonny's poem "Border Country", written a day before they perished on Mt Edgars hideous flanks.

Location 

Park beneath the notch, head straight up drainage. Start is left of a large gray corner with a single bush. Left of the start is a single pitch route with anchors. locate the first bolt of BC 30' up beneath a flaring seam/corner.

Protection 

12 draws, cams- 1 each .33" to 2.5" Rap route on bolted anchors.


Photos of Border Country Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 9
Pitch 9
Topo for Border Country.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Border Country.

Comments on Border Country Add Comment
Show which comments
By Will Copeland
Jan 15, 2011

Great video. Hope to get on this route next summer.

By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 28, 2011

any update on this thing since the rockfall?
By JamesLucas
Apr 25, 2012

I went up there a few times. Pretty rad. Ben Ditto onsighted through the upper crux pitches but not to the summit. The 5.12 pitches are the best rock.
By hkennedy
Dec 27, 2014

Incredible climbing, great views and thoughtful climbing! A new classic 5.12 for the Valley. There is a hard hand-foot-match on the crux pitch for us tall folks. I am owe for two on this route because of this high-step! Thanks to Mikey, Mad Dog and Jeremy for such a great route!
By B.Steel
Mar 9, 2015

We did* this route this weekend (3/7/15) and it was amazing! (*did not do the last 5.9 pitch) Phenomenal climbing on some mostly good rock and sustained climbing with cool sequences on all 4 of the hard pitches.

Couple of notes on the climb that might make it easier if you go up there.

Pitch 6/7: This is the pitch off the big ledge and up to the "North Face Traverse" drawn on the topo. I say 6/7 because there is an intermediate anchor drawn on the topo and you could break this up into two pitches. Anyway, the topo shows two raps there (45M + 15M = 60M) but when we were climbing up and linking these, we had to simul a bit even with a 70M rope. And when rappelling it definitely was a 65M rappel (we linked them)


Pitches 9 and 10: (the 11+ pitches) Both of these show the anchors up and slightly right of the last bolts, but in both cases the anchors are more right than up (we didn't see them right away and almost climbed up too high)

Rappelling: All of the rap stations (except one that has chain) are webbing/rope with biners. So if you're super awesome you might bring some quicklinks and chain up there, or at least a knife and some new webbing/rope
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