|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Dave Lane, Scott Flavelle 1981|
|Submitted By:||Mike Teschke on May 24, 2012|
|Comments on Bop 'til You Drop||Add Comment|
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By Matt Hoffmann
Aug 16, 2012
Stellar route! Getting a bit dirty near the top but, at that point it's locker hands anyway. Just brush the spider webs and moss out of the way.
The business portion is the overhanging fists (bring a couple #4s and a single 5 if you want good pro for this). Once you are past that bust out that hand jams and enjoy a creek style splitter to the chains. Awesome route! Definitely not a giveaway 10b.
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excellent! It's a shame it doesn't get climbed more, the top was a mess. We gave it a quick cleaning, but without traffic I doubt it will last. I thought it was harder than split beaver, but others in our group who are better at stemming felt the opposite. Styles make fights, I guess.
The start is hilarious jug-hauling into an alcove, great fun. The obvious wide section is indeed much longer and steeper than it looks from the ground. Great stems lead to a pod, where the feet dry up and the crack widens considerably beyond fists (or hand-fist stacking). Creative chimney moves get you through the crux, and then it's 60 feet of splitter hand crack to the anchors.
Protection is excellent throughout. A finger-size piece or two protects the opening moves. The fist crack goes mostly on #4s but will take one #5 right at the crux. The upper crack narrows from #3 to #0.75 camalots. Doubles in these sizes makes it comfortable.