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Booze and Broads 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Corbett, Stewart Coffield - 1988
Page Views: 5,079
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 21, 2006
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booze and broads

Description 

One of a handful of true must-do routes at Lost Wall, Booze and Broads is a great corner climb. If the strenuous boulder-problem start doesn't leave you out of breath, the stemming corner and roof traverse will.

Start at an overhang under the big corner. Pull difficult roof moves (a spotter and early-placed protection is really a good idea) into a hand crack and muscle your way up to a stance. Follow the right-facing corner to a big roof, then traverse right to a corner and up to the top.


Location 

Starts 15' left of Pop Quiz, just past trail marker #3. Rap from a tree at the top.


Protection 

Mostly medium cams and tricams; build a gear anchor.



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By tenesmus
Dec 22, 2006

This is a must do! Nice little boulder problem to start it out too.

By jeffinatlanta
From: Smyrna, Ga.
Jan 6, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Does anyone remember the single rap bolt at the top of the dihedral? It was chopped about 5 years ago. Good thing, it was sketch.

By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Mar 31, 2007

I chopped it with the FA (Pappy Corbett) in the late 90s or 2000. The guides used it as part of a TR set-up for the hordes. That way, they didn't have to do the fun traverse finish.