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booty cams! free vs. aid vs. won't touch
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Oct 7, 2011
assuming the gear is in visibly good condition- no bends, cracks, or other visual problems, i'm happy to climb on it- aluminium doesn't micro-fracture. you can see any damage it has incurred.

generally speaking, though, i always re-sling bootied cams- i dont like not knowing the history of soft goods i use.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,472 points
Oct 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Levitating
Rusty cams, mank gear, micro-fractured cordalettes- I'll take 'em all. If you're willing to stroll over to your local post office, I'll pay for shipping to take them off your hands.

What I could use are your old slings and mega crappy biners. I've been making dog leashes and dog harnesses for the SPCA and Humane Society. They also get passed onto Animal Control when they're low on gear. Just a thought if you're looking to offload suspicious sun bleached collateral.
alpinista83
From San Francisco, CA
Joined Jul 9, 2009
609 points
Oct 7, 2011
Rob Dillon wrote:
Stop the presses! this guy used a DROPPED CORDELETTE. I wouldn't climb with him. What if it had microcracks? Maybe the previous owner bought it on sale? Had it been used in the daytime? Dirty? non-pretty colors...

Funny. I wasn't worried because it was dropped. I was worried because I didn't know if it had been exposed to heat or chem. Reading for comprehension FAIL.
Copperhead
Joined Aug 16, 2011
0 points
Oct 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Dolgio said: "I also have dropped my Reverso3 from 700 feet and am still using it. It had some sharp edges from bouncing off the rock, but I filed them out and it's been fine."


If only I had known about the myth of Microfractures and I would still have my bitchin' purple Petzl figure 8 I dropped years ago in a cave. Oh, that thing was sweeet.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,619 points
Oct 7, 2011
johnL wrote:
Wouldn't the radiation weaken the sling? You need to inspect it under a microscope in a lead room.


Point taken, Thanks for the heads up.
JPVallone
Joined Aug 25, 2004
210 points
Oct 8, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: North Maroon
ATTENTION CLIMBERS!
All booty gear is unsafe and should be properly disposed. (PM me for the disposal address.)

Seriously though, I think it's a matter of judgment depending on the gear and situation. I've got a lot of booty gear. I use some of the pieces on trad leads at my limit. I've also bailed off a wall in an ice storm using an old hanging rope that was disintegrating as I went (cried the whole way down while nearly soiling my fluorescent lycra pants). Considering that one of the three guys who decided not to bail on that hanging antique died, I would do it again. Use your brain and your eyes and make a decision – it’s probably as good as random advice from dudes on the internet.
D Condit
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Aug 30, 2011
96 points
Oct 8, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle
Brice Harris wrote:
Oh yeah, I use an ATC guide that got dropped of the first pitch of a climb(never let women borrow your gear). I'm not sure what terminal velocity is for gear, but my guess is it doesn't take much distance to reach it. Visual inspection showed no issues, infact I watched it hit the ground about 2 feet from me. It's been probably 3 years since that happened and its caught a lot of falls since then.


My wife dropped her ATC off of Cathedral Peak a month ago...if I wasn't married to her I'd never let her borrow my gear.
Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
155 points
Oct 8, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and my dog hiking in Eldo.
Copperhead wrote:
Funny. I wasn't worried because it was dropped. I was worried because I didn't know if it had been exposed to heat or chem. Reading for comprehension FAIL.


I think your sarcasm detector is malfunctioning!
Brett Brotherton
From Arvada, CO
Joined Jun 29, 2008
142 points
May 4, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Caustic Cock in Red Rock Las Vegas, NV
In an attempt to not start a new thread I brought back this one...Got this booty cam out recently but it got a little beat up from me working on it...I think. The lobes, wires, and triggers are all intact functions fine but its got this bend to it. Is it G2G?


Rock Climbing Photo: Cam1
Cam1


Rock Climbing Photo: Cam2
Cam2


Rock Climbing Photo: Cam3
Cam3
Mostafa
From Alameda, CA
Joined Sep 26, 2011
620 points
May 4, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I had that same Metolius cam in about the same condition at one time. I gave it away as I recall. You just can't untwist those wires. It was too much of a pain to use. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,619 points
May 5, 2012
Agree with Stitch. I have had a few of those warped cams over the years. They are now in a big box of aid climbing gear. I just updated my rack to Master cams, so I now have up to 5 sets of the older TCU in that box. Might have to sell a few.

Prod.
prod.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Nov 29, 2008
52 points
May 5, 2012
Brice Harris wrote:
Oh yeah, I use an ATC guide that got dropped of the first pitch of a climb**********[never let women borrow your gear)

Last weekend I let someone use my rack two climbs in a row. They over camed a #1 so 20 min were spent getting that and on the next climb the #1 was then dropped. honestly the reason I am reading this forum.
spn
From Sioux Falls,SD
Joined Apr 10, 2010
551 points
May 5, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Bocan
The stuff that looks fine (not warped, bent etc) I would climb on, the stuff that doesn't I wouldn't. Seems pretty simple.

But remember just because a cam is damage doesn't mean that it was fallen on. Could be the other 100 climbers before you wailing on the thing trying to unstick it. You just happen to be the winner.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
1,387 points


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