Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Pirate's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blackbeard S 
Booty (aka Long John) S 
Oxymorons S 
Pirated S 
Scurvy Dog S 
Trick or Treat? (aka Captain Hook) S 
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz) S 

Booty (aka Long John) 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 88'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Merlin Larsen and Jay Foley, 2000
Page Views: 2,324
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Save some juice for the top.

Description 

Excellent, and long route. Start is moderate, easing up through the middle, with the crux at the top where the route starts to get steeper.

Because of the length of this route, a 60m rope is necessary, or the belayer must be atop the boulders at the base (can anchor to the ponderosa).

NOTE: This climb was incorrectly called Long John in the online El Rito guide, as Gary C. didn't know the FA info (see comment from FA below).

Location 

The route that is the furthest right on the crag, just right of Blackbeard.

Protection 

12 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Booty (aka Long John) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting before the business.
Resting before the business.
Rock Climbing Photo: About halfway up Booty. An enjoyable, long route.
About halfway up Booty. An enjoyable, long route.

Comments on Booty (aka Long John) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First half is sustained 10b. The top half is steeper and sustained 11b.
By Jfoley
Jun 10, 2008

Merlin Larsen and I put this route up in 2000.We named it Booty...not sure why it is now called long john
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Oct 4, 2008

Jay Foley replaced the anchor today with NM Crag donated hardware (Fixe stainless sport anchor) that should last for years if we only use it for lowering. Look at the wear on the hardware grade snap links in the photo (I think the best of these rate at 550 lbs = 2.5kN. They are for light duty use and NOT for overhead lifting).

Help me out here, but I believe top roping forces can exceed 5 kN. Worn snap links are weaker still. There are more of these to replace (Cobble Wobble could use some love). And those smash links are a bear to remove BTW. Thanks Jay and Sal.

Rock Climbing Photo: Old chain and snap-links
Old chain and snap-links

Rock Climbing Photo: Worn snap-link
Worn snap-link

Rock Climbing Photo: New Fixe anchors courtesy of NM Crag
New Fixe anchors courtesy of NM Crag

Rock Climbing Photo: Jay cleaning old chain and smash-links
Jay cleaning old chain and smash-links
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks for the update, Mike, and thanks to Jay and Sal for the work on the replacement! I have a number of anchor sets from the ARI that are looking for a installation place and El Rito seems like a great place to put 'em. I know the anchor on top of "Jug or Naut" sucks so that's a candidate too. Other suggestions anyone? (Now if I could just find the time...)
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 6, 2008

Sanadine Dream would be a great route if it got a good retrobolt.
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Oct 8, 2008

Jason,

Do take a look at any of the anchors which use the snap links. Wear on those from lowering off (and perhaps some errant top-roping) makes those things a time bomb. Please consider Cobble Wobble and any of the other popular routes. You'll need something to pry/pound apart the smash links. Jay used a knife blade and a lost arrow to open the link from the side enough to wind off the chain. Thanks ARI.

Mike
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 10, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks for the suggestions Mike. I hope I can get up there in a couple weeks for a day or two. I've not removed a smash link before so it's good to have advance warning about those.
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Oct 20, 2008

Thanks Andrew,
Great points and we had those very thoughts that day. There is obviously more work to do for those willing to lend a hand. That technique with the chain into a drilled groove had been widely used in the past and shows just how far the sport has come. The grooving lessens much of the "cantilever effect" and translates to mostly a downward pull (shear). Those rawls seemed solid but the weakness surely seems to be the forces upward on the bolt head and washer. I know of no testing data on this sort of set up. Come help us replace 'em.

Mike

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!