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Iceberg Boulder
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YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Brian Hudson, Rob Stahl, Dave Stahl
Page Views: 1,971
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Mar 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Richard Shore leading Boortemus 5.10d in less-than...


A beautiful line located on a large boulder 100 yards west of the Iceberg Boulder. Slightly offset so you can't see it until you're on top of it or just past it. Right off the ground a couple of moves of very tight hands lead to 30 feet or so of awesome gently overhanging hands. This would be a three star route if it were only longer. As it is, it is excellent and one of the best cracks in Indian Cove for sure. On excellent rock and with excellent protection and sinker jams and a low crux, this is an excellent route for someone wanting to push their crack leading level.


.5" to 3", take several hand sized pieces. Anchor requires 3-5" gear or sling something massive a long ways back from the edge.

Photos of Boortemus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Deluxe jams.
Deluxe jams.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Blortemus party flier (circa 1981)
BETA PHOTO: The Blortemus party flier (circa 1981)
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Higgins leads Boortemus (5.10d), Indian Cove....
Josh Higgins leads Boortemus (5.10d), Indian Cove....
Rock Climbing Photo: Boortemus
Rock Climbing Photo: Boortemus
Rock Climbing Photo: Boortemus
Rock Climbing Photo: Boortemus
Rock Climbing Photo: A.K. on Boortemus.
A.K. on Boortemus.

Comments on Boortemus Add Comment
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By C Miller
Mar 5, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

About 10b if you have less than large hands...nice but short.
By Josh Beck
Mar 5, 2003

A female friend of ours who also led it commented that it felt harder than Heart of Darkness... so much for ratings ;) I thought 10+ was reasonably fair, though it was short.
By Ivan
Mar 28, 2006

Boortemus is a corruption of Blortemus. The Blortemus was the name of a band from the Pomona/Diamond Bar area in the '70s. One of the members had a brother who climbed with the FA party and was apparently fond of blurting it out...it's a fun word to say!
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Hand size will determine the crux; average people will find it in the tight hands down low, while small folks might find it being the wide cups higher up. Great route; if it were only 3-4x as long it would be a five-star mega-classic.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Like Will said... your handsize will determine which section is the crux - this short little baby has a bit of sting for all hand sizes. Good physical fun. Bring BIG gear (#4-#5 camalots) for the belay anchor. Or do like I did and send down the rope afterwards for the big stuff.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route! Starts tight and opens up. Agree that it's about .10b if you have average sized hands, definitely a harder start if you've got big mitts and a hard finish if they're small.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Sep 19, 2009

As Will described, people with smaller hands might find the start to be easier than the off-sized hands above. Muliple hangs as my hands slid out of the crack finally got me to the summit.

Harder than Illusion Dweller, Fisticuffs, Rubicon. IMO

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 14, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

aka 'the snoop rejector.'

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