The area is a small cirque facing south and has approx. 15 developed problems most of which are super good. Steep roof problems a delicate crack/face very similar to the flat iron and a wall named the shadow wall are just a few of the developed problems. the showpeice chunk of rock is the titan boulder which is full tilt and highball. Only one line has been done it ever and its unrepeated! Get out therer and clean it up! For more info...
Located on the south side of the south bluff, approx. 3/4 mile SE of the reserve is a bouldering area which very few people have been to and still hosts many unclimbed problems. One can also approach from parking area on the south side of the bluff past merry-macs campground, however the reserve approach is better due to the fact that you get to warmup/cooldown on the many moderates at the reserve.This area deserves more attention!
Given that the description for getting to this bouldering spot is about as vague as humanly possible short of having never even mentioned it all, a bunch of fuknez does sound appropriate... couldn't hurt!
Wow! If only one could "deforest" the whole South Bluff for just one day-- the treasures that await????
A few of us are heading out here next weekend. We'll try to get some better pics. The area faces south and is on the south aspect of the south bluff, so its one of the better late season bouldering areas in the park.
Here it is the most epic day of bouldering at DLSP! Start at the amazing pillar, send the arete for sure; move to boomtown, hit all the classics, hike to the chode, somebody send that big boy cave and arete for god's sake; hit up the ejaculator, and finish at the reserve and climb as many problems as are left in your flailing, punished arms! A big fat loop of the bouldering on the south bluff.Anyone in? Next spring lets organize and git on it! A no-brainer in my delusional mind!!
Once again this area repells those without the proper amounts of lube. my friends Mike and Zach searced for it only two weeks after we were there and could not locate it after hours of search. apperantly it only reveals itself to me! I might have to start charging next spring. Let the epics continue...
These coordinates for Boomtown put it on the north side of the South Bluff. A better guess would be closer to 16 T 279479 4808452 or N43.39653 W89.72302. Nick's coordinates for "Dark Horse", right next door, are reasonably accurate. These two areas should be merged.