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First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ben Dunne T 
Black Crack T 
Boomerang S 
Corner Pocket S 
Creature S 
Cross Eyed and Blind S 
Eye of Mordor S 
Floaters S 
Lady Punk S 
Lamda S 
Push S 
Sausage S 
Superman S 
Toymaker S 
Typical Situation S 
Vignette S 
West Virginia Two-Step S 

Boomerang 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: ---- on Mar 17, 2011

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Fred Gomez

Description 

This route shares its first five bolts with 'Push' before diverging slightly right and heading through the hanging dihedral. The first five bolts of the route head through smooth white stone. Expect nice horizontal ledges, sloping crimps and a beach ball sized pod. This intro section is followed by a no hands rest on a giant ledge.

The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.


Location 

This is the first route you encounter when approaching the first buttress. Look for the large hueco around the third or fourth bolt.


Protection 

11 bolts plus fixed biner anchor. A long sling on the first bolt in the hanging dihedral is a good idea.



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By Blake Cash
Nov 1, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thought this route was cool until I realized you could climb the jug filled crack 2 feet to the right of the bolt line the whole way up. The moves to the left of the crack are cool...but the route is indeed an eliminate this way.

By AndyJohnson
From: Alexandria, VA
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

There are two bolts that are 3 feet apart just before the base of the upper dihedral. The first is easy to clip from a rest jug. I recommend also clipping the second, though it is a harder clip. Having both clipped will keep the rope from getting behind your feet if you spin off the wall while moving off the boomerang hold. Good luck, it is a fun climb!

By Cocoapuffs 1000
Jun 27, 2014

Fun climb but ridiculously contrived if the crack is 'out'. Anyone onsighting this is going to stay in the crack for the lower section. I didn't think twice about using it until someone gave me the 'correct' beta