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 ADVANCED
Plumb Line Gully
Routes Sorted
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A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 
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Boomerang T 
Filthy Garbage T 
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Plumb Line T,TR 

Boomerang 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1st pitch: Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Newsome. 2nd pitch: Jeff Newsome and Les Ellison. Circa 1980/81
Page Views: 2,064
Submitted By: Ben Sukow on Sep 20, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Late season tanning.

Description 

Follow the regular approach to plumb line, but go right up the plumb line gully rather than left to plumb line. Bushwack a ways up the gully until a right leaning finger crack appears to your left. Pitch 1 climbs a rising traverse up the crack using a cool mix of liebacking and finger locks. Expend good fingers coupled with exfoliating granite foot holds (these should clean up with more traffic). The second pitch is 5.9- s. If you're in the area of plumb line, this climb is well worth doing.

Protection 

Nuts and small cams. Doubles or triples of green and yellow aliens are advised. Due to the rising traverse on the first pitch, either back cleaning or a fair amount of small cams are needed to avoid ground fall. Don't forget to protect the second. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.


Photos of Boomerang Slideshow Add Photo
Waiting for something to come back around...
Waiting for something to come back around...
beautiful crack.
beautiful crack.
Looking up pitch 1
Looking up pitch 1

Comments on Boomerang Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 22, 2005

fun route!! Punch it!!
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pitch one is excellent- pumpy locks with an occasional lieback thrown in. A couple of finger finger sized cams are nice and a #3 camalot is handy on the exit (tipped out #2 works). The occasional small foothold saves the day and the forearms, but the grit can be a bit unnerving given the vague deck potential.
By jeff newsom
Aug 18, 2008

The first ascent of the first pitch was done by Lynn Wheeler and I. Les Ellison added the second pitch at a later date.This was around 1980/81.........Cheers,Jeff Newsom
By mountainsense
Nov 9, 2009

I agree with TP--the second pitch is an adventure: undercling-liebacks on crumbly rock, a few relics of fixed nonsense and a gripping mantle to finish things off. Worthy, for sure, but--perhaps--not worth it.
By Alec
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was a bit harder than Plumb Line, definitely more sustained and with an equally tricky crux. Unfortunately much dirtier than its neighbor.
By Ben Folsom
Jan 16, 2012

Both pitches can be combined into one long 70 meter pitch (just barely).
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 27, 2012

Pitch one is great. Pitch 2 is great way to spice up your life. Expect some slabby face climbing protected by ratty slung pitons intermixed with an occasional cam in a pod, with a final long undercling crack to finish it out. A little gritty, but never R though one roof must be pulled with gear at your feet. Doubles small c3's to .5 camalot pretty mandatory for pitch 2, and your belay is a slung bushel. Could use a bolted belay here. Overall really fun climb.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 22, 2014

Stiff route, quite a bit harder than most 5.10a climbs in LCC. Vaguely reminiscent of Disco Duck, but without any chickenheads for feet.

Watch for the extremely sharp rope-eating crack towards the tope. Core-shot my rope badly.
By choppinBolts
Oct 16, 2014

Pitch 2 is to be avoided in my opinion. I might say it was the worst pitch I've climbed in LCC.