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Follow the regular approach to plumb line, but go right up the plumb line gully rather than left to plumb line. Bushwack a ways up the gully until a right leaning finger crack appears to your left. Pitch 1 climbs a rising traverse up the crack using a cool mix of liebacking and finger locks. Expend good fingers coupled with exfoliating granite foot holds (these should clean up with more traffic). The second pitch is 5.9- s. If you're in the area of plumb line, this climb is well worth doing.
Nuts and small cams. Doubles or triples of green and yellow aliens are advised. Due to the rising traverse on the first pitch, either back cleaning or a fair amount of small cams are needed to avoid ground fall. Don't forget to protect the second. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.
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Looking up pitch 1
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 12, 2007
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Pitch one is excellent- pumpy locks with an occasional lieback thrown in. A couple of finger finger sized cams are nice and a #3 camalot is handy on the exit (tipped out #2 works). The occasional small foothold saves the day and the forearms, but the grit can be a bit unnerving given the vague deck potential.
|By jeff newsom|
Aug 18, 2008
The first ascent of the first pitch was done by Lynn Wheeler and I. Les Ellison added the second pitch at a later date.This was around 1980/81.........Cheers,Jeff Newsom
Nov 9, 2009
I agree with TP--the second pitch is an adventure: undercling-liebacks on crumbly rock, a few relics of fixed nonsense and a gripping mantle to finish things off. Worthy, for sure, but--perhaps--not worth it.
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I thought this was a bit harder than Plumb Line, definitely more sustained and with an equally tricky crux. Unfortunately much dirtier than its neighbor.
|By Ben Folsom|
Jan 16, 2012
Both pitches can be combined into one long 70 meter pitch (just barely).
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 27, 2012
Pitch one is great. Pitch 2 is great way to spice up your life. Expect some slabby face climbing protected by ratty slung pitons intermixed with an occasional cam in a pod, with a final long undercling crack to finish it out. A little gritty, but never R though one roof must be pulled with gear at your feet. Doubles small c3's to .5 camalot pretty mandatory for pitch 2, and your belay is a slung bushel. Could use a bolted belay here. Overall really fun climb.