Bookmark 5.7
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | To Main Ledge: Steve Thompson, G. Webster, 1966. Above Main Ledge: P. Berry, R. Linnett, 1954. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is identified by a large white dihedral above Main Ledge. Start in a striking crack, below this dihedral. Climb 5.7 for 140' and belay. A short pitch leads to Main Ledge. Climb the dihedral to the top. Walk off left.
Protection Pro to 3".
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Jan 23, 2007
| You can combine the first two pitches with a 70m rope no problem, and I seem to recall the supertopo says you can do it with a 60m... Also, we used a #4 Camalot to protect the crux move on the upper half of the route. Fun route, I thought the first pitch was more fun. Please respect falcon nesting closures. |
By Degaine Mar 1, 2007
| I confirm that the first two pitches can be combined with a 60m rope. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 20, 2010
| Best done in 2 pitches with a 70 m rope--I had tons of extra slack to build an anchor at the wall (i.e. the only real place you can find anything sturdy and solid to work with) and extend myself all the way back to the edge of the cliff for communication with my partner. However, the people who climbed this after us used a 60 m and the leader could not reach the wall, so she lassoed some laughable shrub at the cliff edge and told her partner to simul up 30 feet until she could reach the back of the ledge. First pitch is QUALITY! The offwidth on p2 can be protected with micro-cams on the opposing wall. |
By Colonel Mustard From: Reno, NV Aug 14, 2011
| I was able to reach a good belay on the 2nd pitch with a 60m when I did this. We did it in 2 pitches. My belay was a stout tree I'd slung. Good thing too, my anchors weren't solid yet because that second pitch was my first gear lead. |
By Angie C From: Sacramento, Ca Oct 1, 2012
| It's really tight to link the first and second pitches with a 60m rope. The party in front of us had a 60 meter and the belayer had to climb a couple steps for the leader to have room to make the anchor. We used a 70 meter and had zero problems. That offwidth on the second pitch is something else! A refreshing change from the typical LL climbing I do. Not as much in the way of the LL dikes to help, so you have to use cracks and friction a little more on this climb. Also, get ready to shimmy up that chimney and OW! Also, its supposedly not a dirty climb, but I found it dirtier than everything on the east wall. |
By Josh Cameron Apr 30, 2013 rating: 5.8
| Just as good, if not better, than many of the overcrowded "classics" on the East Wall. On a five star system, pitch 1 is four stars, especially if you lead one long pitch to the big ledge. I also used a 70m rope and was able to walk the ledge to build my anchor at the base of the 2nd pitch with about a foot or two of slack left. For pitch 2, I'd give 2 stars out of five. The gear I used in the offwidth was a #1, a #2, and a #3 metolius nut in that order. I also thought the route had a better than average topout, but then I like big Jefferey Pines ;) |
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