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The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
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Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
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Virgin Spring 
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Bookmark OW 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: jason seaver on Mar 3, 2008
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Decent climbing in the lower crack leads to a brief, but stout, battle in the clean and enjoyable OW. Easier and dirtier wideness leads to the top from where you can scramble down right.

This cutting-edge free climb was redpointed on the second ground-up attempt, after returning a year after the first attempt with the proper wide gear.

As far as I can tell this is a first ascent, but it's hard to believe Snively or Westbay or some other hardman didn't saunter up it in flip-flops decades ago. But I guess it's beilevable that they just never bothered, as well. So, I'll post it here as the Bookmark OW, and try to think of a name if no one else claims it. It's definitely a pitch worth doing if you enjoy the wide cracks.


This pitch is on the lowest slab on the Bookmark, where the approach trail reaches the cliff. From where the trail hits the crag, beneath the route Rusty’s Pillars, go right 40-50 feet to where a large hard-leaning pine tree grows close to the cliff. Behind the tree find a right angling crack line that leads to a gaping offwidth crack.


Standard rack with a few big pieces. One #5 Friend and two #6 Friends would be optimal I think.

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