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Fat Freddie’s Cat
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Bookman Pitman 
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Lust In The Wonderland 
North Face , The 

Bookman Pitman 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Evan, Margy Floyd & Craig Fry, 4/85
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Jan 19, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Bookman Pitman, on Freddie's Fat Cat in the Wonder...

Description 

The crux comes at the point where the nice tips to fingers crack flares out and you have to do some fun yet interesting stemming/smearing moves on small edges to surmount. You need a 70m if you are going to the block at the top, or you can stop at the obvious ledge about 20 feet above where the crack peters out.


Location 

The route is 30 feet to the right of The North Face and follows the obvious corner. Be careful the rock is exfoliating in places below the corner....


Protection 

Pro is good the biggest piece I used was a .75 Camalot, the rest was small nuts (#5 and smaller). The anchor was a flared out crack but I got in 2 #1 and a #2, totally bomber.



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By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

This climb might be 5.6 if you spend your climbing days stemming out on steep dihedrals, but if that's not the case, be prepared for an eye-popping surprise. Bartlett's book calls it 5.7 PG in the text, then it's labeled 5.6 on the topo and in the index.

Be a solid 5.7 leader before heading up this short, fun route. That's my tip. The lieback moves that get you up to the crux are fun and pretty easy. You'll find the crack just right for fingers and plenty deep.

Here's a bit of video that a friend took of me flailing past the crux move on this climb. Ha!

Passing the Crux on Bookman Pitman

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