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Tralfamadore Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
22 Bottles of Queer on the Wall T 
Beautiful Day T 
Book of Wasps T 
Edge of an Age T 
Hop Knot T 
Lost Highway T 
Studio 54 T 
Tralfamadore T 

Book of Wasps 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: Rusty Pipe on Feb 7, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Shows Book of Wasps, Trafalmador, and Beautiful Da...

Description 

p.1 suprisingly fun, and the rock is pretty solid as compared to how it looks from afar, navigate a world of 5.8 rock to set up belay for The Book.

p.2 Climb over blocky ledges to get into the book. Look out for wasps. Climb the corner with thin crack to the top.

Location 

Obvious book to the left of Beautiful day. See beta photo. I like to rap in from the big Doug Fir that hangs over the canyon on the East wall of the South Side and scramble across the drainage to the toe of the north side

Protection 

normal rack, you might want to have a nut tool with you if you are leading because the thin crack in this rarely climbed corner can get filled with dirt. Clean it out and stuff a .4 or something like that


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By Paul rauss
Apr 26, 2013

Its great you found a link up from the bottom of the canyon. I attempted to find a direct start straight down from the corner but never made it happen. I agree with the 10a rating
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 26, 2016

There is a variation to the 2nd pitch that most likely has been climbed before. Instead of staying in the dihedral, traverse left to the edge and follow a broken crack up to a mostly hand crack splitter, where the angle breaks and heads for short right facing dihedral with some loose blocks. You can also start from Edge of an Age, staying on the arete instead of traversing into the "tooth". Maybe 5.9+ or so, 1-2 stars. Would need some cleaning up to keep it safe for the grade.

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