Book of Spells  5.12a/b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] FA:  Jonathan Siegrist New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Enter the Book of Spells, it might be frightful.

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Description 

To the right side of 'Cloak and Dagger', there is a series of clean, parallel cracks that wave their way to the top of the crag. Book of Spells takes an obvious leftmost line, utilizing gear placement opportunities while remaining on the best quality rock. Aside from the first 20 feet (loose, somewhat poor stone - demoting the climb to 2-star status), the whole route is bullet rock. Very cool and unique movement takes you through the first roof encounter, while a wildly overhung wall with surprisingly big holds awaits above.

Location 

Glide up the parallel crack system to the right of 'Cloak and Dagger' to the left of the lichen.

Protection 

Great pro exists mostly all over the climb, but sometimes requires a bit of fiddling. Rack up to 1 inch with doubles in the small pieces. Be careful at the bottom - a leader fall could result in a team slab plummet. There are anchors installed on Book of Spells.

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Jonathan Siegrist fiddling in gear while reading t...