This is the right leaning crack, that is 40' left of Church Bowl Tree. Crux is pulling a blocky bulge 12' off the ground, and getting established in the crack on awkward tight hands with poor feet. Continue up the crack, which gets easier. You'll get to an old fixed pin, which is easily backed up, then you get a fun and thrilling airy traverse right, great feet on a dike, but no hands. balancy! At the end of the traverse, you'll hit a vertical crack with great fingerlocks in pin scars, then a final easy traverse right to a small slung tree. Rap off.
This route continues up a few more pitches at a guidebook .11a, but I haven't done them.
40' left of Church Bowl Tree, obvious 45 degree right slanting crack/book.
Gear to 2". Offset gear very helpful in pin scars, I used the two larger hybrid aliens on this climb.
|By Colby Wayment|
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 20, 2010
I'm pretty sure there is a second pitch (at least) to this, above the tree, and it goes at 5.11-. Haven't climbed that second pitch, but it looks thin.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 13, 2010
I only climbed the first pitch of this route on September 11th of 2010, and I didn't notice a fixed piton. I'm pretty sure it's gone. The bottom crux is pretty awkward, but the rest of the pitch climbs quite well, and takes good gear to boot. In my opinion, there are tons of good rests between the crux and the top. Just make sure your calves are in shape...
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Jan 15, 2012
The second pitch is alright, but not as good as the first. It's got some cool moves switching cracks and then some finger-jamming after that. It gets dirtier after the first set of anchor bolts about 45 ft up.