|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||L. Dalke, C. Jennings (5.8 A4), 1967.FFA: D. Azin, M. Tarrant, 1986|
|Fixed Hardware:||6 Lead Bolts, 10 Lead Pins, 2 Belay Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||Mark Tarrant on Oct 29, 2004|
|Comments on Book of Numbers||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2004
|Years ago I was able to get the top with a hang, but never unlocked the secret to the first pitch. I would have reversed the grades on the two pitches and called the first pitch the crux.|
By Scott Bennett
Feb 25, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tried the first pitch today, a few thoughts:
-The whole pitch felt very well protected. I used a #3 and #4 Camalot at the first roof, and then a few more small pieces to back up the pins on the rest of the pitch.
-There's plenty of hard climbing packed into this pitch, but the standout crux is near the top 2 bolts, starting with a big reach and step right (easier if you're taller), and then a mega-highstep (easier if you're shorter).
-This is a very high quality pitch, with though-provoking moves and good rock. I can't wait to try the next pitch, hopefully tomorrow morning!
Tried the second pitch today: more great climbing! Though not very long, it's definitely an enduro challenge. Lots of underclings, sidepulls, and tricky footwork force you to maintain body tension for a long time with no real rests.
Fortunately, it seems very well protected with two bolts and a slew of fixed pins. I also used a md/lg stopper (BD #9) and a #3 Camalot.
The big roof at the end isn't too hard, although a bit exciting. There's a two bolt anchor maybe 30' up and right above the roof, although it might be easier to downclimb/back-aid the pitch if you don't have someone that wants to follow it.
From: Vail, CO
Apr 9, 2016
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
|Tried this route the other day. I felt like P1 was the definite crux of the route, but I suck at 5.12 slab climbing, so that's probably why. P2 is really fun! The roof at the end felt weird, even for Eldo. I cut my finger open pretty good on it. Worthy route! Don't need much gear. Did find a #4 useful, but you could go without.|