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Book of Condolences
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Book of Condolences 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Boone Speed, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Photo by Jonathan Vickers

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ridiculous stemming up a beautiful corner, if you lack technique, expect to get owned. Troublesome and involved, Book of Condolences requires precise movement up a hard, open dihedral. Smear, press, and edge your way up this technical route, and don't be surprised if you find yourself puckering...

Difficult from beginning to end, the crux of this line sits high, so save some juice for the final moves. Well-bolted and well-protected, equipping the draws here, won't be your biggest issue. Consider colder temps a requirement, the grease factor can be pretty high. Unarguable at it's grade, this is a good, true project for most mortals.

Location 

Found in the middle of the BOC area, this line is the prominent corner set up on a small ledge.

Protection 

Five or six draws to a two-bolt anchor.


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jul 11, 2013

Beautiful rock, but for me, not exactly enjoyable climbing. Technical, precise, painful, and powerful(up high)...don't expect this to ever be downgraded. This route packs as much climbing as other routes twice its length. 1.5 stars?
By Dave Budge
From: Trashcanistan
Jul 13, 2013

1.5 stars? What a snob. Brilliant climbing, as fun as any route in the canyon. And more interesting than any other AF route of it's grade. Bheller would have liked it better if he didn't solo it in flip-flops after three PBRs. I guess it's hard to compare to his desperate granite fandangos. I'm giving it four stars just to right some wrongs.
By chris nance
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

One of my favorite routes in the canyon!