Book of Condolences
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Photo by Jonathan Vickers
Ridiculous stemming up a beautiful corner, if you lack technique, expect to get owned. Troublesome and involved, Book of Condolences requires precise movement up a hard, open dihedral. Smear, press, and edge your way up this technical route, and don't be surprised if you find yourself puckering...
Difficult from beginning to end, the crux of this line sits high, so save some juice for the final moves. Well-bolted and well-protected, equipping the draws here, won't be your biggest issue. Consider colder temps a requirement, the grease factor can be pretty high. Unarguable at it's grade, this is a good, true project for most mortals.
Found in the middle of the BOC area, this line is the prominent corner set up on a small ledge.
Five or six draws to a two-bolt anchor.
From: SL UT
Jul 11, 2013
Beautiful rock, but for me, not exactly enjoyable climbing. Technical, precise, painful, and powerful(up high)...don't expect this to ever be downgraded. This route packs as much climbing as other routes twice its length. 1.5 stars?
By Dave Budge
Jul 13, 2013
1.5 stars? What a snob. Brilliant climbing, as fun as any route in the canyon. And more interesting than any other AF route of it's grade. Bheller would have liked it better if he didn't solo it in flip-flops after three PBRs. I guess it's hard to compare to his desperate granite fandangos. I'm giving it four stars just to right some wrongs.
By chris nance
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One of my favorite routes in the canyon!