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Bighorn Mating Grotto
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Bighorn Mating Grotto Circumnavigation Route (Free Muff-Willy) T 
Book of Changes T 
Caught Inside on a Big Set T 
Dangling Woo Li Master T 
Euphrates T 
Morning Thunder T 
Take Two, They're Small T 
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Book of Changes 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Charles Cole, Todd Gordon, Marge Floyd and Kelly Carignan, March 1985
Page Views: 2,237
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Dec 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Shawn near the crux.

Description 

Interesting face climbing (a traverse in from the right or a 10d direct start) lead to fun, varied climbing up cracks and a dihedral, with some slab moves thrown in. This is an excellent route with awesome moves. The direct start isn't too bad, go for it!

Recently a block pulled off the route (obvious triangular rock scar in the dihedral). It's not at a crux section and doesn't seem to have changed the route much, but there will a little dirt and cruft in that one spot for a while until it cleans up so use caution.


Protection 

One bolt and a selection of gear to 1.5" perhaps. Bolted belay.


Photos of Book of Changes Slideshow Add Photo
Bighorn Mating Grotto
BETA PHOTO: Bighorn Mating Grotto
3/17/90
3/17/90

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 21, 2013
By Josh Beck
Dec 17, 2002

Which bolt was the original? I assume one of the bolts near the rampy section up high, but do not know. I agree there would be adequate protection but it would probably get a PG rating as it had in the guides... The block that pulled may have offered pro placements (though probably sketchy if it was loose)? I don't recall if there were other / better options near it, I didn't pay a lot of attention. Like I said I don't know who added the bolts, but the top three are like a bad joke. There's one maybe 2-3 feet below the ramp, one on the ramp, and one that's clippable while standing on the ramp. I'm not in any way defending the bolts, just stating what I found when I climbed the route.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 19, 2002

I'll be there next week. Are the bolts gone yet?
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 11, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

From the ASCA website: "the only 1/4" bolt (2nd prot. bolt; a spinner 1/4" bolt with blue-colored Leeper hanger) replaced 1/2002 by Greg Barnes/ASCA. Note that this route currently has 5 protection bolts; some were apparently added in the past few years."
By paul wallace
Jan 23, 2003

I was climbing this route a couple of months ago and a large detached block came off in my hands. The block was about 2 foot by 2 foot and came loose from about 2/3 way up the route just after the bolted crux. I managed to hold on to the block long enough for my partner to take cover. The crux may be somewhat easier with this change.
By Josh Beck
Jan 24, 2003

I climbed the route after this incident and found the crux to be the start... There was still alot of cruft and dirt where the block had obviously been so I did some brushing off to the best of my ability to clean it up some.
By David Evans
Jan 24, 2003

Craig Fry and I did the FA of this route (I lead it) with one bolt and a couple of pins. Who bolted it up? I know that neither of us did. I wanted to call it "Sanctuary" but somehow that other name stuck.
By Josh Beck
Jan 24, 2003

I don't know who added them, but from what I've heard they've been there since last spring at least. There was a thread on rec.climbing regarding this a few months back as well with a title of "Book of Changes" or very similar, I'm sure you can find it via Google groups.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Here's the link if you have some time to kill.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

1 bolt remains (replaced 1/2002). The fixed pins indicated in the 92 Vogel guide are gone. Bolted rap anchor (single 60m just barely makes it to the ground).

I was somewhat dissappointed by this route. It has a lot of loose rock and is tricky to protect.
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 8, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The direct start, as opposed to starting to the right, is 5.10c and recommended; aka the Book of Dirt.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

note- protection is intricate and difficult and a big fall is possible at the crux. i declined to lead it after rapping down it and noticing the distance between the only bolt and gear both below and above it. maybe in the future when i'm a little bolder!

that said- the route is alot of fun to climb!
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Didn't notice any loose rock, but some of the softest rock I've seen at Josh exists on this route. The crux comes before you can clip the bolt and is protected by marginal gear. Without the fixed pins (gone now) it is runout after the bolt, too. A fun TR, but a semi-serious lead.
By keli
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 1, 2007

There is definitely loose rock on this route. Protection is tricky the entire way and the rock turns to crumbly, creaky, flakes and edges after the bolt. The runnout after the bolt along with the poor rock quality at that spot makes for a serious lead. I lead it and once I pulled on a few of the holds above the bolt...i decided to stop there. Cool thing is you can bail at the bolt or enjoy a toprope from the anchors above. Cool moves down below..
By Darin Limvere
Jan 21, 2008

I just led this route the other day and there is currently one bolt just below the freshly broken rock. What I didn't know until now is that you're suppose to go right after the bolt and into the crack above. I went left up the bulge and pulled onto the sketchy/grainy slab which eventually met back up with the crack to the right. Does anyone do this as a variation? It didn't seem right at the time seeing as how it felt harder than 10b. Would be a pretty bad fall to blow it on the slab... Fun route.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Apr 14, 2009

Climbed this on 4/12/09 and didn't encounter any loose rock. The direct start felt more like 5.9 than 10d, but it's slabby and insecure. The traverse start mentioned in the route description looked much more difficult. After the bold start, the rest of the route is surprisingly protectable - lots of bomber nut placements to be had. The crux is encountered above gear, but the route is steep and I feel like whipping here (which I almost did) wouldn't necessarily be dangerous.

The start could be protected by throwing the rope over the large horn that's about 18 feet up, essentially setting up a mini toprope. It's not a bad idea if you value your ankles. I didn't think of it until we pulled the rope and it snagged the horn on the way down.
By D. Evans
From: Tustin, California
Nov 1, 2009

I led the crux on the FA. The route is called "Sanctuary." This name error may be corrected in a guide of the future.
By BrendanC
From: Sherman oaks, ca
May 14, 2011

Question for Dave or those in the know: After the bolt (as of now the only one on the route) which is at the base of the slabby section that leads into the mini-dihedral towards the top, does the original line take the dihedral around right, or does it climb the steep to slightly overhanging bulge out left? On TR I went left and felt it harder than 10b. This was the crux for me. This line seems like it would be PG13 at least on lead as it is run out after pulling the bulge and the crack in the bulge seems suspect for gear. Beta anyone?
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 21, 2013

kind of a serious lead, better have your head screwed on tight.