||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, spring 1995, FFA Bubb, Summer 1995.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Any but winter, as the cave and opening jams are an icebox.|
|Page Views: ||18|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Feb 9, 2007|
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Tony Bubb on the F.A. of Boogered (11c) at Symphon...
A great climb that is a safe romp. Protection is as available as you can hang on to place it. The climb starts at the back of a round cave and works out a handcrack past a big nose, climbing out and slightly downwards to the apex of a roof, where the lip is turned (crux) into a crack and a left-facing corner. The crack over the lip was once filled with dirt but has been excavated and now takes jams and locks.
The route is toward the right hand end of Symphony Wall, starting back on a ledge in a cave. It is most easily recognized by the 4-foot tall "nose" of rock dangling down from the left side of the handcrack piercing the roof. Jerry Bargo's, who found the line and pointed it out to us gave us the origional directions which read: "head right along the rock looking for a roof until your jaw drops onto your feet... that is it."
Cams from 1"-3"
Tony Bubb cleaning loose rock off of the route for...