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Park Ridge Rock
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Boobalicious 
Crespi Critter 
Easy up 
Red Dawn 
Slot, The 

Boobalicious 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pablo Paster, 2/15/04
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Pablo Paster on Feb 15, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.

Description 

Boobalicious follows the humpy arete to the left of Crespi Criter. There is a funky move around one of the lower humps and holds are sparse and tiny. There is a variation that goes to the right a bit at the first hump and follows the face between Boobalicious and Crespi Critter, the working name is "Fond Mammaries" (5.10a, Kevin Knight, 2/15/04).


Protection 

There is a good anchor at the top of the route (The "The Slot" anchor) as well as a new anchor at the top (The anchor for Crespi Critter). Trad leading is not recommended for lack of placements.



Photos of Boobalicious Slideshow Add Photo
Boobalicious
BETA PHOTO: Boobalicious
It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall gets it done.
It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall get...
Comments on Boobalicious Add Comment
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By Stephen Pratt
From: Goleta, CA
Mar 27, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This was a pretty cool route. Trickier than I thought. I love the name.

By vincent L.
Feb 17, 2008

The route pictured here is not 5.9+. It doesn't really help anyone to sandbag it. It is bolted for lead now with three solid bolts. It's very safe and in my opinion it goes at at least 10b .

It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock.

By Matthew Geyer
Oct 30, 2008

This is a 3-bolt sport route that is fairly vertical and is a good, safe route to fall on for those looking to try leading a stiff .10

By John Knight
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

HISTORICAL NOTE - I climbed with Kevin Knight (no relation) and Pablo Paster back in 2004 when they thought they did the top rope FA of this route (and posted it on Mt. Project). This was previously top roped and called Lumpy Lumps but was "re-named" on Mt. Project by Kevin & Pablo in 2005.

Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.com from someone that claims to have put in the bolts in Sept. 2005 and done the first (free) ascent and rated it 5.10d. They called it "Fear and Loathing".

Unless I hear claims to the contrary, I am saying it's 5.10c. As for the name, I'm fond of Boobalicious. It just sounds way better than Lumpy Lumps or Fear and Loathing.

john