|15,462 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||FA: B. Prudden & H. Kraus - 1952|
FFA: D. Williams & J. McCarthy - 1961
FFA (Direct): I. Rezucha & J. Pofit - 1975
|Submitted By: ||Josh Janes on Feb 28, 2006|
Tricia Fusco approaching the P1 crux of Bonnie's R...
In 1937 Bonnie Prudden shattered her pelvis in a skiing accident. A doctor told her, "You will always limp; no more skiing, climbing, dancing. And no children." Nothing like a promise like that to stir a climber to great things: fifteen years later she made the historic first ascent of Bonnie's Roof, after the legendary Hans Kraus backed down and handed her the sharp end.
Bonnie's Roof is a really enjoyable climb that launches up the most obvious right-facing dihedral in the Trapps. The Bonnie's Roof access trail is the next one after the High Exposure access trail, about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
P1: Begin by jamming and stemming through several bulges to a high belay below the roof. One of the early bulges checks in at 5.9 and is the crux. This long pitch can be broken into two if necessary. 5.9, 130'.
P2: Traverse left across the steep face to the arete, following obvious chalked holds and gear placements, then head up to the top. 5.7, 50'.
P2 (Direct): Bonnie's Roof Direct is a highly recommended variation that continues up into the roof, slightly right, and then pulls through the roof at a steep thin hands crack (5.9++) -- wildly exposed!
From the top, rappel with two ropes. With one rope, you can walk back to the High Exposure rap line, or head right to rappel over Ursula.
BETA PHOTO: The route. At the final huge triangular roof, the ...
Rich Goldstone racking up at the base of Bonnie's ...
Rich Goldstone approaching the first of the roofs....
Rich Goldstone above the main roof. It's 5.6 or so...
Tricia Fusco approaching the P1 crux.
Mauro beneath the second pitch of Bonnie's Roof Di...
Taken from 9+ variation for pitch 2 of Bonnie's Ro...
Christa entering the crux of Bonnie's Roof.
What a fun arete!
After the traverse... some gear please!
Unknown climber on Bonnie's Roof during our Gunks ...
Gene Smith on P1 below the crux, and unknown climb...
Unknown climber finishing P2.
under the first roof of the direct finish
Pulling the roof on the direct finish
Approaching the crux traverse on Bonnie's Roof.
Crux gear, Bonnie's Roof
Bonnie's Roof, in the juggy roofs above the crux
Manny contemplating the moves up the arete on P2 o...
im not going to lie - i led this though a friends ...
gosh i love the gunks
First did this route in the 90's. Shirt and helme...
Eric at the end of the P2 traverse, clipped into t...
Laura leading the last pitch on Bonnie's.
We split it up into 3 pitches
BETA PHOTO: There are two old pins on the traverse and you can...
Climber making moves on P2 5.7 variation.
Heading up the arete on P2.
Old style is the new new style
|Comments on Bonnie's Roof
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006
Man O Man, what a sweet long 1st pitch. I got to lead the direct variation the 1st time and fell in love with it. The Direct finish has great gear and will keep your attention until the top. I remember looking over my shoulder 1/2 way throught those roofs and the exposure was awesome.
|By Cory B|
Nov 9, 2007
I can't believe the first pitch is harder than 5.8. Do you really think it deserves a 9+?
|By eric larson|
From: aurora, co
Apr 22, 2008
absolute must do, gunks classics, especially when finished via the direct line!
5.8 or 5.9 who cares.. this route is simply fun-friggin-tastic and should be done by all who climb 8's and 9s
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2008
The direct finish is so awesome. The gear is bomber and you can place a piece below and above the roof before you commit. Too bad the thin crack was so short though.
|By Jay Harrison|
Jan 17, 2010
Absolutely awesome route.
Some pull-off hints:
You can get a no-hands rest just below the P1 crux roof. This is tres good for setting pro before tackling the pump. I won't go into details, but it takes a bit of flexibility with the legs...
The Direct finish P2 is the only 5.9+ move I know that you can protect standing on a ledge without needing handholds. Face outward and fit a cam in that lovely crack above your head, sliding it up, away, and down just a tad. Tada! Bomber pro.
Get a good stem after pulling the initial roof and you can do the same for the last one, though it isn't quite as comfortable.
May 19, 2010
do the direct in one long shot! its not bad
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 19, 2010
The exposure on leftward traverse out to the arete on P2 of this route rivals that of High Exposure and is definitely wild and fantastic. From the belay ledge atop P1 it looks improbable and thin to traverse out that way. It turns out not to be difficult and extremely airy. Simply awesome.
The first pitch is great but this second pitch makes the climb.
|By Steven Cherry|
Jun 28, 2010
Bonnie's Direct is my favorite 5.9 in the Gunks.
The guidebooks have had confusing ratings in the past, but the current guidebook gives the first pitch 5.9, the regular (traverse to arete) finish 5.7, and the direct finish 5.9. I don't see how any harder numbers can be justified; I don't think p1 is as hard as Ant's Line or p1 of the Spring, and I don't think the p2 roof is harder than MF p2, or Commando Rave.
As others have said, though, regardless of the numbers, this is one of the best of the best climbs the Gunks has.
|By Larry S|
Aug 15, 2010
Great Route! Be weary of some loose flakes on the wild traverse on the second pitch (regular finish). They are marked, but I didn't notice either of them till i put a hand on them.
|By Robbie Flick|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
Awesome route. A favorite at The Gunks for sure!
We climbed to the belay station under the big roof and my partner tried to take on the direct variation. He backed off, and instead went around the corner, following some chalked holds. It made for an easier, but still high quality finish.
From: Reading, VT
Oct 28, 2010
Deserving of all 4 stars. This route is an intimidating onsite, but the moves are much easier than they look from the ground. Indeed, the quality of the entire route is stellar no matter the rating numbers.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 2, 2010
A must do! This route is Classic.
Jan 4, 2012
R.I.P. Bonnie, thanks for all the great lines.
Love this route!
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 8, 2012
One of the best 5.9's on the east coast. It's too bad for visitors that so many large groups toprope the first pitch and tie up this destination climb.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 17, 2012
Wow, what a great two pitches. The direct finish is simply superb. Bomber gear all the way, so don't hesitate to give it a go!
|By Ben Brotelho|
From: Albany, NY
Dec 3, 2012
Perhaps it was the conditions at the time (wet and cold), but I thought the first pitch was harder than the direct last pitch. It was also at night so the exposure of the direct finish was diminished too.
From: Lake George, NY
Mar 17, 2013
This route is pretty much as good as it gets.
I'm glad to see the rappel beta here, which the guidebook doesnt mention. We rappelled from the station directly on top of the climb thinking we would use the station about twenty feet right of (and at the same height as) the p1 crux. Price is wrong. The upper roof is so big i was free hanging, way way too far away to reach. So i rappelled all the way to the knots still hanging in space. Luckily, I was able to fashion a grappling hook out of two 4' runners and a #3 cam and snagged a boulder to pull myself onto the ledge 25' off the ground. We made an easy down climb from there. It made for an interesting finish to a classic climb. DO NOT RAP BONNIE'S ROOF WITH ONE ROPE!
Apr 8, 2013
I've worked on making sure every route has FA & descent information -- nice to see it noticed ;-). Glad you got down ok in the end.