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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
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Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
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Bonnie and Clyde 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lee Hansche and Lily Hallett 9/7/10 (trad)... retrobolted on 7/23/11 by Lee and Jakob Montoya
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,768
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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will and dave trumper on this instant classic rece...

Description 

Start Just left of Anchovie Caper in a corner with some cracks and seams. Work up the corner with some stemming and jamming moving a little left in to a good crack where it gets easier. Follow this to an overlap. Mantel on the left side of the slab and clip the anchor.

It stays dryer than i thought it would.

A little beta video since many people have asked me how to do the start...


Location 

Just left of Anchovie Caper, look for a nice hand jam slot near a right facing corner.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Bonnie and Clyde Slideshow Add Photo
Here is the newly cleaned face of bonnie and clyde.... i took a before picture but do to lighting differences it doesnt represent much of a before and after image...
BETA PHOTO: Here is the newly cleaned face of bonnie and clyde...
up higher...
up higher...
Will jammin the start...
Will jammin the start...
Will... doin it
Will... doin it
tricky start moves
tricky start moves
Dave Trumper up high on Bonnie and Clyde...
Dave Trumper up high on Bonnie and Clyde...

Comments on Bonnie and Clyde Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2014
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Lee man nice work, I had looked at this line and was actuallly thinking about doing it next time I was there with gear, now I know what it is and will certainly get on it. Nice work man :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2010

thanks guys, beneith all the filth there really is a very nice climb. I've been looking at it for years but it was always wet or i didn't have a willing partner. i will clean it soon and then i will recommend getting on it for sure.

As for gear, i'd call it PG for someone who knows gear craft. i used a small nut and a hard to place nut mixed in with some straight forward solid cams... have fun!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 9, 2010

Definitely scrub it up, Lee. Once I scrubbed Anchovy it stayed a lot drier than I expected. I started working on that line, but switched over to the Caper. Glad somebody did it. It is not so long, but nice rock.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2010

I figured it might stay dryer if it was clean... thats good to know... thanks...
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 9, 2010

What lee no pictures,I have to see how dirty she is.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 9, 2010

Joshua's right. Dirty pix or it didn't happen!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2010

Ill take some before and after pics when i clean it haha...

and the two routes dont share any climbing the way i did it, as of now they only share the walk up to the anchor...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 21, 2010

I cleaned the hell out of this thing today... almost 3 hours of scrubbing... I really hope that after all that work i put in someone wants to climb it... It really is fun, the crux off the ground might be 5.9ish but ill keep the grade as is for now... tell me what you think...

If someone with the skills wanted to bolt it id be fine with that... otherwise i might eventually bolt it but not in the near future...
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 25, 2010

I led this earlier today with Jared and thought it was ok. I didn't find the bottom climbing to be 5.9; it felt a little easier than that. Stemming up and heading up the crack halfway was pretty fun. I had a little trouble with some of the pro (then again, I'm a newbie). I think this would definitely see more traffic if it had 3 or 4 bolts and its own anchors. I'm sure it would confuse people looking in the "new" guidebook... but with a little bit of time, the walking guidebooks will be updated. :)

Thanks for the cleaning! If you end up bolting this, I'll brush it off a tad more.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 25, 2010

yeah... it should be bolted... i will have to do that...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 24, 2011

I bolted this route so people can enjoy it without having to lug the trad stuff along... climb it, its pretty darn fun!
i do need to clean the top but its good the way it is...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb is much fun and very similair to its neighbor to the right, Anchovy Caper, that is a fun and thoughtful crux right off the ground to some mellow climbing and one section of a little more thought provoking climbing at the top.

Just before the anchors on the left is one of the coolest holds, its like a baseball size knob, very different style hold for Rumney.

Once again Lee good find and thank you for putting the time and effort into preparing this climb for the rest of us to enjoy!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 25, 2011

Thanks, really glad you like it Matt!
and i agree about that hold at the top, so cool! im glad i dug it out of the dirt :)
By J Meagher
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is probably just because my beta was horribly wrong, but this felt waaaay harder than 5.8. I probably spent 25-30 minutes just trying to get to the 1st bolt without pulling on the rope. The first 3 or 4 moves each felt harder than the crux of fish corner (5.10b). Past the start though, it's a great climb up the flake! When lowering, watch your rope so it dosen't get stuck in the chip in the bulge.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 4, 2013

J, the first few moves are really tough without crack technique. I don't have any crack technique so it's pretty hard for me too :). Great climb though.
By J Meagher
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

By "crack technique", do you mean using the hand jam at the start? I thought that was probably an important hold, but I couldn't reach anything else from there, so I ended up just powering through it.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 4, 2013

Yeah, the hand jam. I'm just not too good at it yet and then even if you stick it the next few moves are a little tricky. I have yet to get the opening move without stick clipping the first bolt because I get a little shaken because I have awkwardly rolled down that hill before after falling, haha.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 4, 2013

i promise that with the right beta its no harder than 5.8+ (even if you aren't a crack master)... i feel like i should take video of my beta as a public service haha... glad you got on it though :)
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 6, 2013

yeah man, i must be missing something, i got it sometime early last year but have a terrible memory when it comes to beta :)
By J Meagher
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Yeah, Lee, I think a video would be a great idea, especially because keeping the start at 5.8 sounds pretty beta intensive. I'd definintely want to try this thing again with the right beta sometime
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I am with Lee on this, 5.8 seems about right. I would be willing to call it 5.8+ but it is not as hard as Yoda or any other 5.9's in the area. Fun climb though for sure!
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 12, 2013

It's definitely beta-intensive then because Yoda feels way easier to me, haha.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 16, 2013

I looked at it on my way by today... the bottom is not dirty at all the last 8 feet has grown back some moss... the dryer season and some traffic will take care of it or someone can brush it... i will if i climb it soon...
also for those who find it hard, here is my beta after bouldering it a little to refresh.... spoiler alert... right hand jam, left hand palm on the left wall, walk feet up high on the right, kick left foot out and stem, work left hand along a corner feature, another foot move or two and you can reach good hands... nothing super secret but more familiar maybe to trad climbers...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 18, 2013

Hey, and what happened with Miss Hallet? We don't see "pictures of Lily" anymore :( Does she still climb, or gone on to conquer the world? I was hoping you would bring her or other muses out to Green's when you come so you'd get pictures of her on the routes, then people would come out and climb them. Having a girl on a route seems to add two stars.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 18, 2013

as for the first comment... yeah this is all forum material but i dont know how to move it all...

as for lily... she moved to Canada and is happily married, training hard, and will someday conquer the world... i miss her and cant wait to get more photos of her working her magic... ill post em when i get em :)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 18, 2013

Married? Wow! I just remember meeting her when she must have been about 16 or something in dreadlocks. Congratulations are in order then :)
In the edit dropdown, Lee, there is a "move comment to forum" option.
I moved some of the comments to mountainproject.com/v/rumney-n...
-One Tip: when you pick the forum, then make a heading for it, place a "1" in front so it is easy to find until you have moved all the comments you want, then edit the first one to remove the "1".
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 19, 2013

oh cool thanks for the tip :)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 22, 2013

I climbed this yesterday. I thought it climbed really well, well worth another day scrubbing to make it spic and span. Cleaned and I think people would be all over it. It is just not so appealing looking all green. I started brushing the start a little while waiting for a belay.(Anchovy could use a brushing of the sand that has flown down too.) Stemming and laybacking should get you up at the grade. I used one easy hand jam near the bottom.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 3, 2013

here is a quick video of the route since there has been much discussion about the beta and the grade...
By Shane Allen
Jul 21, 2014

What a terrific warm up climb! The first move is tough enough to get your head in the game and the rest is really fun.

Does anyone find this route harder to TR than lead? I hung this up and my party couldn't stick the first move so I cleaned it as well and the struggle on TR was real, kind of odd.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 22, 2014

glad you enjoyed the route! ive never noticed a difference from TR to lead on this one but i do know 2 helpful things...

1.most rumney and or gym climbers arent too used to the techniques that are helpful on the crux start...
2. even if you're done it before if something subtle is just a little off it can feel a bit harder for sure...
By S. Neoh
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Finally got on this one today.
It was a tough and insecure start with the right wall wet.
We led it with the rope pre clipped thru the first draw.