Bongs Away, Left
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This pitch is a fun and somewhat physical option for those who reach the top of Reed's Direct p2 and still want more - but not quite as much as Reed's 3rd pitch offers.
Fire up steep double cracks at the back of a shallow 'chimney' to pull onto a sloping ledge. These cracks will alternately take knees, fists, armbars, and handstacks - the shallow chimney provides infinite no hands rests with the right body language. Before you turn right onto the sloping ledge, gaze at the continuation of the left crack: a hard looking and overhung offwidth.
From the sloping ledge follow the nice crack as it curves up to a roof, which is easily pulled on the featured granite that abounds here.
A great pitch if you're looking for relatively tame, well protected, and non-sustained semi-wide climbing.
From the long ledge at the top of Reed's Direct second pitch, walk right until the end of the ledge. Clip in to the anchor/rap station here and climb the twin wide-ish cracks that are in front of your nose.
Up to the 3.5 or 4"
|Comments on Bongs Away, Left
|By Mark P Thomas|
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
After climbing, make sure to TR Bong's Away, Center (5.10a). It is a great OW - clean, sustained, and very exposed. It starts thin and widens to hand stacks. It has some nice calf to knee jams too. Either downclimb the top of the 2nd pitch of the Regular Route to follow the line (a little dirty on the lower part), or swing over from the ledge to the start (it is much cleaner from here on up).
Mar 24, 2012
This pitch is well protected and a good entry in to the wide world of OW.
|By Nathan Scherneck|
From: Portland, OR
Jun 7, 2012
Anyone know what the "hard looking and overhung offwidth" that arches out left is called and rated? Looks exciting.