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The opening 6 bolts of Bongo Fury is reminiscent of Churning in the Wake with long athletic moves between positive pockets. Move quickly through this section or you will get very pumped due to the overhanging nature of the climb. For the beginning section if you find yourself making a move off of anything that is worse than a perfect sinker two finger pocket you have probably biffed the sequence. At the sixth bolt position yourself to do the "frizmo," (whatever that is) or maybe just move dynamically to a big jug? The route is roughly 12c to that point.
Rest at the big jug before you launch in to a bewildering array of slab and bulge moves. The finish of this route climbs more like a route from the gorge rather than the tuff. The hardest moves travel through technical sidepulls between the 8th and 9th bolt. You'll be rewarded with a jug rest at the 9th bolt. The rest of the moves are not trivial so shake out before you try to decipher the next bulge. Several sequences can get you through this section, but anyway you move you'll end up using a 1.5 pad mono. The moves remain tricky all the way to the chains. The slab is very unique and anything but tedious. Take the time to work the moves on the slab and you will be rewarded.
This is a great route to do if you like good movement and solitude. The rock quality is amazingly good.
Located on the east facing side of the cocain gully, right of crack babies and the nasty looking crack. It is an overhanging wall with drilled pockets.
10 bolts plus anchors
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 15, 2010
"Frizmo" has something to do with Jeff Frizzel. I've heard that something broke on this a few years ago and it might be 13b now?
|By Fred Gomez|
From: Lewisburg, WV
Mar 16, 2010
Yeah. I knew that Frizzel bolted the route. I just don't know why a special move got named after him.
I have also heard that there has been some hold breakage. It seems like this is probably the reason you are forced to make a move off of a non-existent right hand pinch on the slab.