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BETA PHOTO: "Bongledesh". Photo by Blitzo.
The start is a strenuous, tricky mantle. There is no protection, but with some effort you can place some gear at ground level and rig a long leash to keep your belayer from falling over backwards if you fall when he/she spots you. Above the start, a seriously runout 5.10A face takes you to the end of the first pitch. There is a second pitch (5.10A).
On the rounded prow to the left of Mike's Books.
Light rack and two bolts.
By Josh Harding
From: El Portal, Ca
Mar 2, 2011
There seems to a new bolt protecting the mantle, making it a three bolt route.