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Bongeater Buttress
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Bongeater T 
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Life on your feet T,S 
Prowser T 

Bongeater 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Warren Marshall, Lenny Nelson 1964 FFA: George Lowe, Pete Gibbs 1974
Page Views: 12,988
Submitted By: JFA on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (109)
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Getting steeper. Photo Keith Beisner

Description 

The obvious dihedral. Some awkward climbing leads to a great hand crack which goes to fingers and finally to OW, which can be liebacked. The starting variation to the right is called Handeater.

Protection 

Medium cams and stoppers. A #4 Camalot will fit in the OW at the top.


Photos of Bongeater Slideshow Add Photo
Brian Hess taken by Scotty Mann
BETA PHOTO: Brian Hess taken by Scotty Mann
Heading up the always fun Bongeater. Photo Keith B...
Heading up the always fun Bongeater. Photo Keith B...
Bongeater in January
Bongeater in January
cruxin
cruxin
Bongeater ate my skin
Bongeater ate my skin
GREAT CLIMB! can be TR'ed relatively easily.  grea...
GREAT CLIMB! can be TR'ed relatively easily. grea...
Nick Layton Swingin'
Nick Layton Swingin'
Ally Coconis (left) and Danimal (right). Photo by ...
BETA PHOTO: Ally Coconis (left) and Danimal (right). Photo by ...
pullin the bong
pullin the bong
I think I'm still trying to do that crux
I think I'm still trying to do that crux
bongeater in all its glory
BETA PHOTO: bongeater in all its glory
Natalie crushing Bongeater.
Natalie crushing Bongeater.

Comments on Bongeater Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
May 22, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Can we say classic. Great climbing on great rock with great gear. This climb deserves to be climbed every year. Hell, every week. Cams are nice, but not neccesary Leave that large cam at home, and just run out the finish. It would protect the finish, but it also is very pumpy to place. I found it easier to deal with the 20 footer possibility instead. Pick your tactics on this finish though, as has been said, either an offwidth (bloody knee jam) or a pumpy lieback (my choice).
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

sweet jammin. try lie-backing the hand eater for fun.
By tenesmus
Feb 12, 2006

Nathan - a blue tcu fits nicely to the left of that flake in the back of the offwidth. It holds whippers from large climbers.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 31, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top.
By john gilchrist
From: sLC, utah
Sep 19, 2006

Do you know what "nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by bongeater.

One day I will send this clean but at least I made it to the top. LOVES IT
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jan 31, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I made it to the top too! What a great feeling. Man I need to work on my jamming technique but what a great route.
By Talia
From: SLC, UT
Jun 27, 2007

Can we also say beached whale..? IM sure there is a very stylish way to pop out of the top but for me it was a nice hook of the foot and a hoist of the body. Not so pretty but a very fun route none the less.
By T_jones
From: Salt Lake
Mar 10, 2008

Got to climb this today in beautiful 60 degree weather...so sick!
By Moonfri
Jan 20, 2010

A hard 10d; sweet pro down low but very pumpy up top and nerve racking. It'll be a while before I get this redpoint... ;)
By Courtney Pace
Apr 12, 2010

Its steeper than it looks. The top is a little scary but super fun once its over. A .75 protected right under the OW and caught my fall nicely. Don't even try to put in any pro up top, it will just frog you.
By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

As good as it gets for hand crack climbing. Place a good cam and punch through the upper crux to the flare and get your feet set on the tiny nobs (I can vouch for a safe fall here - I have popped off this move a number of times). The exit is an interesting lie-off mantle unless you grovel into the flare. This is a great route to train for a big wall in a day - lead it over and over all day long and you will get in good shape.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 28, 2010

The first 1/3 or so is much like climbing an off-width, the middle 1/3 consists of fantastic jams in a crack that eats pro (BD 1-3 for me), and the final 1/3 can be done by laying it back and cruising the upper flare. I carried the #4 but didn't use it.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Mar 28, 2011

What gear placements? This crack is meant for top-roping.

"This is a short route, maybe 5.6 but very runout. Definitely meant for TRing."
By jrobokop
Jun 12, 2011

Beautiful view with morning cool granite crack for my very first Utah climb! Not one scratch the holds were so sweet
By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Awesome line. Gear is all there. Tenesmus is right - solid blue TCU placement as well as the obvious #4 camalot to protect the exit moves.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Hard and varried! Wish I could have gotten it clean but it demands endurance. Managed to fit a #4 at the lower portion of the OW and then a #5 at the very top, on which I fell and weighted numerous times. Definitely worth doing and trying again for the clean ascent.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I have probably gone up this route literally 100+ times and feel like it's best to "run out" the end. Below the offwidth crux are two pods right above each other that take a red #1 Camelot C4 (green #6 Metolius Ultralight Power Cam) and a blue #.3 C4 (yellow #2 Metolius Ultralight Power Cam). One or both of those will protect a clean and safe fall, so just power through the brief crux! :)
By choppinBolts
Oct 26, 2014

The splitter to the right (Handeater) is super awesome, great hand crack.