Bongeater 

Can we say classic. Great climbing on great rock with great gear. This climb deserves to be climbed every year. Hell, every week. Cams are nice, but not neccesary Leave that large cam at home, and just run out the finish. It would protect the finish, but it also is very pumpy to place. I found it easier to deal with the 20 footer possibility instead. Pick your tactics on this finish though, as has been said, either an offwidth (bloody knee jam) or a pumpy lieback (my choice).

sweet jammin. try lie-backing the hand eater for fun.

Nathan - a blue tcu fits nicely to the left of that flake in the back of the offwidth. It holds whippers from large climbers.

There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Do you know what "nemesis" means? A righteous infliction of retribution manifested by an appropriate agent. Personified in this case by bongeater.

One day I will send this clean but at least I made it to the top. LOVES IT

I made it to the top too! What a great feeling. Man I need to work on my jamming technique but what a great route.

Can we also say beached whale..? IM sure there is a very stylish way to pop out of the top but for me it was a nice hook of the foot and a hoist of the body. Not so pretty but a very fun route none the less.

Got to climb this today in beautiful 60 degree weather...so sick!

A hard 10d; sweet pro down low but very pumpy up top and nerve racking. It'll be a while before I get this redpoint... ;)

Its steeper than it looks. The top is a little scary but super fun once its over. A .75 protected right under the OW and caught my fall nicely. Don't even try to put in any pro up top, it will just frog you.

As good as it gets for hand crack climbing. Place a good cam and punch through the upper crux to the flare and get your feet set on the tiny nobs (I can vouch for a safe fall here - I have popped off this move a number of times). The exit is an interesting lie-off mantle unless you grovel into the flare. This is a great route to train for a big wall in a day - lead it over and over all day long and you will get in good shape.

The first 1/3 or so is much like climbing an off-width, the middle 1/3 consists of fantastic jams in a crack that eats pro (BD 1-3 for me), and the final 1/3 can be done by laying it back and cruising the upper flare. I carried the #4 but didn't use it.

What gear placements? This crack is meant for top-roping.

"This is a short route, maybe 5.6 but very runout. Definitely meant for TRing."

Beautiful view with morning cool granite crack for my very first Utah climb! Not one scratch the holds were so sweet

Awesome line. Gear is all there. Tenesmus is right - solid blue TCU placement as well as the obvious #4 camalot to protect the exit moves.

Hard and varried! Wish I could have gotten it clean but it demands endurance. Managed to fit a #4 at the lower portion of the OW and then a #5 at the very top, on which I fell and weighted numerous times. Definitely worth doing and trying again for the clean ascent.

I have probably gone up this route literally 100+ times and feel like it's best to "run out" the end. Below the offwidth crux are two pods right above each other that take a red #1 Camelot C4 (green #6 Metolius Ultralight Power Cam) and a blue #.3 C4 (yellow #2 Metolius Ultralight Power Cam). One or both of those will protect a clean and safe fall, so just power through the brief crux! :)