Mountain Project: Climbing Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalina Mountains)

The Boneyard is a great mid-mountain destination to escape the heat of summer. Several quality sport routes can be found here, from 5.9+ to 5.12-. The area shares an approach with the uber popular Ridgeline crag and can be a welcome haven from the crowded gym-like atmosphere that can occur there.

Getting There

Park on the right pullout at milepost ~18.5 next to a quarry of white rock. Don't get too discouraged when you see 4-6 cars in this area as most of the climbers are likely at Ridgeline. The trail for both areas begins up a steep slope at the upper end of the lot. As you work your way up the drainage wash take care not to slip on polished slabs. The hike reaches a saddle intersection and breaks off to the right and to the left. Take the right trail to the base of the climbs. The approach should take approximately 15 minutes.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boneyard:

Buried Alive 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch

Little Trundle Of Joy 5.10 Sport, 75 feet

Layed to Rest 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

Master Blaster 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 130 feet

Grave New World 5.10+ Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet

Six Feet Under 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

No Brainer 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 220 feet

Sweeping Beauty 5.10+ Sport, 99 feet

Tibial Pursuit 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Grave Robber 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

It's A Wanderful Life 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 190 feet

Unearth Thee Delights 5.11+ Sport, 70 feet

Comments on Boneyard

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By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Jul 19, 2006

Definitely the perfect escape from the Ridgeline crowds, I've been there 5 times and only seen other people once..

Climb there first, then go to Ridgeline to warm down (in terms of climbing) and warm-up (in terms of sunlight)..

By Ryan Sinclair
From: Loma LInda, CA
Sep 6, 2008

The 5.11d route (not listed) is missing its last hanger above the second crux.

By Jimbo
Sep 9, 2008

This route, which is in Squeezing the Lemmon II, is called When the Whip Comes Down. The bolt missing the hanger is the one you clip before you pull the roof at the top. I'll replace it when and if I go there again. Otherwise someone else might think about replacing it.

By Ryan Sinclair
From: Loma LInda, CA
May 16, 2009

"When the whip comes down" now has a hanger

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 15, 2012

My understanding of the routes (Left to Right)

Grave Robber (11- bc 60ft) Extreme left.

Buried Alive (10 bc)
Bone Spur (11+ bc 170ft) 90ft Extension of Buried Alive.
Bone Ami (9+ bc)

It's A Wanderful Life (11+ bc 190ft) Starts on ledge 20ft up.
Chilled to the Bone (11 bc, 190ft) Goes right of roof.
Layed to Rest (10 bc) Extension off pitch 1 of Chilled to the Bone.
Grave New World (10+ bc 250ft)
Masterblaster (10+ bc, 130ft) Scramble 3 bolts to first anchors.
No Brainer (10+ bc, 220ft)

Six Feet Under (10+ bc 65ft)
Unearth Thee Delights (11+ bc 70ft)
Skeleton Key (10d bc 70ft) Small tree at ledge left of route.
Tibial Pursuit (11a bc 70ft) Starts off tree; ends with corner.
Nail In My Coffin (10- bc)

Bad To The Bone (12- bc)
When The Whip Comes Down (11+ bc)
Throw Me a Bone (11 bc 70ft) 10ft right of When The Whip Comes Down.
Little Trundle Of Joy (10 bc 75ft) Hole near first bolt.

Prince Brushing (10 bc 110ft) Left side of first buttress.
Sweeping Beauty (10+ bc 100ft) Right side of first buttress.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 18, 2012

Very nice John. It would be great if a couple of people like you were given access to sort any routes.

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2012

Thanks to the admin who sorted the routes -- it is appreciated.

I actually requested administrator privileges a couple of months ago but was denied. Perhaps it is for the best as I already spend enough time on this site.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2012

That's too bad, John. I would think those guys would be psyched to have you sorting all this stuff out. That would save them a lot of work and would be helpful to the rest of us, too.

I'm glad that one of the admins sorted this area based on your post, though.

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Boneyard

Description

Getting There

The Classics