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The Split Boulder
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Bones to Bits 

Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2-3 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,780
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Justin Guarino on 'Bones to Bits'

Description 

One of the very best boulder problems at Pawtuckaway. Don't climb too far unless you're sure of what you're doing. A funky layback/kneebar keeps the"riff raff" away at the bottom. A classic squeeze chimney follows which then pinches off at the top. You must then leave the security of the chimney for the crux - a surprisingly awkward scrunch move makes the transition to the mossy slab above. You really wouldn't want to pop off here. Relish the summit (like being on the roof of a house!), then consider the options of getting down, possibly via the epic downclimb of a fat chimney on the opposite side.

Location 

Look behind you if you're looking at the problems on the backside of the Ride the Lightning Boulder.

Protection 

Downclimbing ability


Photos of Bones to Bits Slideshow Add Photo
the chimney
the chimney
Bones to Bits. Offwidth to chimney. 5.9 if you know how to climb this sort of thing. Don't fall.
BETA PHOTO: Bones to Bits. Offwidth to chimney. 5.9 if you kno...
adam getting into the knee bar
adam getting into the knee bar
trying it and deciding i dont want to break my ankles haha
trying it and deciding i dont want to break my ank...

Comments on Bones to Bits Add Comment
Show which comments
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 27, 2009

Great problem, but without the mental part i think that it's only maybe .8 more like .7+ OW off the ground to a super secure chimney with good if spooky jams to the top.
By maineah
From: Maine
Jun 20, 2010

Great Route! ... if you are into off widths, that is. The chimney was great; by inhaling deeply, I was able to get no hand and no feet torso jams. The top out is spooky though, so make sure you've got the head for it.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 10, 2012

Perhaps my favorite "trad climb" in pawtuckaway!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 6, 2012

my lil video of this amazing problem...
By Russ Keane
Jul 29, 2014

This appears to be one of the most dangerous highball (hairball) problems in the park, or at least in Boulder Natural.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 30, 2014

super safe as long as long as you dont fall haha...
the down climb was much scarier in my opinion... I down climbed a chimney that felt about 5.7 that is a good bit taller than this line...