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 ADVANCED
Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babble On T 
Boneheads T 
Chicken Fever T 
Desperado S 
Desperate Straights T 
G-Man  T,S 
G-Man Extension (AKA Book'em, Dano) T,S 
Gilligan's Chicken T 
Jack Pinnacle, Left T 
Knob Job T 
Knuckleheads S 
Makayla's Climb T 
Nine Lives T,S 
Nurdle T 
Pat Pinnacle T 
Polymastia T,S 
Sherrie's Crack T 
Skinheads S 
Suds T 
Super Slacker Highway, The T 
Trough of Justice T 
Tube, The T 
Underclingon S 
Unknown (5.8?) S 

Boneheads 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1999 Anderson Family and Dan & Sue McDevitt
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: Ed Hartouni on Jul 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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George Varagas leading the upper section of Bonehe...

Description 

The start is tricky bouldering moves with the technical crux. Move up and left onto a cool, steep face with large holds.


Location 

Up and right along the cliff from the Sherrie's Crack walk up, beyond the Desperate Straights corner and just right of the Babble On corner.

Protection 

Bolts and good opportunities for gear.


Comments on Boneheads Add Comment
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By The Other James
Feb 16, 2009

This is a sport climb (8 QD's + 2 for the anchor). Tricky bouldery thin start, but after the second clip you're pulling on easier, jug holds which seemed a-typical for the Valley.
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I don't recall seeing any opportunities for gear on this route that would have made much sense. Most cracks were right next to bolts. I wouldn't bring any cams or nuts.
By Brian Alexander
Oct 9, 2009

A fun 10a linkup would be to climb the excellent starting crack of Babble On then pull up onto the face of Boneheads before the traverse under the overhang. Bring a few cams from 2-3.5 inches for the starting crack, but the face above is well protected by bolts.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jan 11, 2010

Crux is between the first few bolts, the rest of the route feels 5.8-5.9.
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 26, 2013

I did the linkup described by Brian above. Good opportunity to practice some hand stacks at the bottom. Wouldn't have minded a #5 to protect the first few moves. I just walked a #4 until it got good. Then put in a #3 and then a #2 above. Jug hauling on bolts up top was 5.9ish.