Bonehead Roof 

The first ascent of this is Jim Shimberg in 1989.

People give this the bomb because of the generic first half? or the fact that the not-so-great finish could deck you if blown?

I really don't think if you have an attentive belayer you would hit the ledge, even pulling up and over the roof - the clip in the roof is so high. But don't take my word for it, check it out! I actually thought the route was fun.

This route and Med Dose Madness are in close proximity to each other and there may be confusion. I do not think the finish of this route is sketchy. The one on Med Dose is somewhat so, definitely kept my attention until I dropped the rope into the anchors. It (Med Dose) could use one more bolt before the anchor.

Did this route today. The fixed pro are some of the biggest (grey) eye bolts I have ever seen! But most of them are not recessed into the rock with their stems clearly visible. If you do not have trad gear or any that fit (like me the bonehead), expect to do about 30 feet of 5.4 or so solo to the 1st eye-bolt.

soon, you can avoid the boondogle by just clipping the first bolt of med dose madness, then going to first bolt of bonehead, then back cleaning med dose's clip

no trad gear or free soloing necessary

Hannah, I believe you are correct. I still need to be reminded of this back clean business, still mostly a foreign concept to me (even after 20 years of climbing).
By the way, nice photo of you climbing in Yunnan. :)

One of these days I will have to show Shimmie how to properly put glue-ins in (rolls eyes)