Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Jimmy Menendez |
| Season: | Winter |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008 |
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Looking straight up Bone Crusher.
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Description Bone Crusher (sometimes referred to as Bone Collector) is the line to do on the wall. It is the rightmost of the three climbs at the main wall (the one visible from the road) and offers continuously high quality, difficult climbing.
Begin in a slightly loose, difficult to protect slot and work up to good gear and a rest on a ledge out right. From here some interesting moves lead up to another rest at a jug, and then the business begins: Climb up to a small wedged flake below the steep, bulging wall above, and then jam and/or layback your way up the powerful splitter fingercrack to a stance in a slot. A few more strenuous moves lead to a bolted anchor.
Good training for your free solo of Moonlight Buttress.
Protection It is possible to place a #1 Camalot at the very beginning and very end of the route, but both placements are optional. All the rest of the gear is smaller -- a triple set is nice. No stoppers or draws needed.
Sort of a side view of the top of Bone Crusher.
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Adam on the Bone Collector.
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Scott starting out the lead on Bone Crusher and tr...
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Brett at one of the earlier, easier cruxes.
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Kevin Stricker spring 2009 going for it.
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Kevin Stricker.
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Air time. It's rare to see Kevin fall.
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Brett Merlin on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
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Brett Merlin on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
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Joel on Bone Crusher, 5.12+.
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Bone Crusher up the center.
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The lower cruxy moves on Bone Collector.
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| Comments on Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher |
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12
| Also heard it as being called the "Bone Collector" due to bones collected at the base from birds of prey!? |
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c
| Regardless of what it is being called the correct name of this route, as given by JM is Bone Crusher. |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.12
| Sounds good to me, Wayne.
Good route nonetheless. Plenty of rests. Finger stack through the crux bulge. Trick beta to get a piece at the end of the crux. Good gear. Good fun. Jimmy once told me he thought it was 5.12a. |
By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 15, 2008
rating: 5.12c
| I thought there was one good rest on this thing, and the rest was super sustained. Even the last moves to the anchor were tough!
Sick! |
By Josh Gross
Nov 24, 2008
| Great route, not your normal Front Range crack! Wish we had more routes like this one! |
By Dave Russell
Dec 19, 2008
rating: 5.12b
| Super high quality movement. One of the best on the Front Range, nice change of pace from the granite splitters that are ever so prevelant in the platte. |
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c
| The name of the route really is Bone Collector! The FA found lots of bird bones in the crack while cleaning the yuck out. I could be misremembering, but it was just a little while ago that I asked.
It sure does put the crush on fingers! |
By Scott Bennett
From: Colorado, etc
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.12-
| Finally made it out to this wall today, Wow! Huge thanks to everyone that's been involved in developing, cleaning, trail buiding, etc at this wall, it's so cool to find some great splitter action so close to home.
Like any pure crack climb, size matters! My partner had to do at least 2 finger stacks to make it through the crux, but I was able to get one finger lock where he couldn't. So I guess with bigger fingers, it felt like an Indian Creek 12-.
My advice for those looking to send: smash your fingers repeatedly in doors until they swell up like sausages and you'll cruise this rig.
-Scott |
By eric whewell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.12b
| I brought 2 (0.3), 1 yellow c3, 3 (0.4), 3 (0.5), 3 (0.75) Camalots. This seemed to be adequate, at least on the redpoint. I didn't feel it was quite as sustained as many Indian Creek .12s, but there are actually 5.12 moves on this route. |
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 16, 2012
| I fondly remember working this crack back in the mid '90s - it was then (and still is) one of the hardest cracks I've ever managed to do. Steep, sustained, and hard! It was a little dirty and had a few loose holds on it back then, but I'm sure it's cleaned up now. Funny, I lived in Golden for five years and never heard of anyone else going out to that crag. Things sure have changed. |
By slim
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| Did you ever go up there with Cameron Tague? I think I remember him talking about a crack that fits the description/location at lunch one day. |
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