This is a tall, open, and highly exposed mountain that is remote and very beautiful. The faces around the famous buttress are chossy, and instead of being one large piece of rock, are actually a collection of blocks, offering many places for handholds and gear placement. This area is within the Pemigewasset Wilderness, so remember Wilderness rules apply.
Bondcliff can be reached from the Kanc via the Lincoln Woods and Wilderness trails (9.1 miles, ~3,100 feet of elevation gain), or via the Zealand, Twinway, and Bondcliff trails. The nearby Guyot tentsite offers the closest established location to spend the night, using an outhouse, and get clean water.
At the base of the route, you will see a face with an off width crack rising left to right. Follow the crack to the ledge, walk all the way to the back of the ledge and continue up to a blocky overhang. Shift over the aręte to climber’s right and continue to a large ledge. At this point you will rotate almost ninety degrees to climber’s left. You will see a vertical crack to your left on the face, this is the crux move. Proceed up into the chimney. ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH