Bond Street 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | rdlennon on Dec 13, 2008 |
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Bond Street
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Description This stunning hand crack splits the middle of London Wall. A pure, aesthetic classic and a fine test of jamming ability. The crack starts as wide fists and, after 30 feet of beautiful hand and fist jams, narrows to fingers near the crux, which involves a move into a niche. Climbing above the niche is substantially easier but less straightforward. The pitch 1 belay is on a good ledge with poor gear on top of the crack. Pitch 2 is a dirty scramble off to the right (still has technical moves; stay roped up). A great climb; certainly one of the best at Millstone.
Location Right of Embankment Wall. Splitter hand crack right in the middle of the face.
Protection Takes whatever you'll give it. From a 3.5 camalot down to small wires, protection is good throughout. Except at the belay.
BETA PHOTO: Upper part of Bond Street. The crux is getting int...
| Sergei on the classic Bond Street, May, 2006. Phot...
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By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK Oct 23, 2010 rating: 5.8
| Straightforward hand-jamming with the hardest move getting into the niche after the crack closes down. Low end HVS 5a in UK terms - Indian Creek 5.7? |
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