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R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)
Routes Sorted
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A Touch of Sushi . T 
After The Fall T 
Afternoon Tea. 5.7-R T,S 
Anglo/Japanese Route, The T 
Bon Voyage T 
Color of Spring T 
Cumbrian Way T 
Daffodil Dihedral T 
Day of the Litheon., The T 
Eccentric Spiderman T 
Escape, The T 
Fell on Deaf Ear T 
Firth of Forth T 
Flying Visit T 
Focus Pocus T 
Gang of Four T 
Great White Fright. T 
Great White Ridge, The T 
Moonbeam T 
No Faith T 
Peenut Gallery. T,S 
PG Tips. . T,S 
Real Sport . 5.8+R S 
Scorpion Face. T 
Solstice T 
Spidermans Day Off .5.5R T 
Zig Zag T 

Bon Voyage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 900', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Ross. Paul Ross. Shingo Ohkawa.(Var Leads). March 12 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 873
Submitted By: USBRIT on Mar 19, 2013

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Tele photo P1


A classic climb for the Reef, where the rock over all was very good. Although it appears as a traverse the climbing does not feel that way.
Paul's last first ascent in the US before he returned to the UK.

P1)Climb 20 feet then step left into a groove(small/med cams). Up this to a small tree then straight up passing three bolts to bolt belay. 180'5.6 (This anchor is the belay of the climb Afternoon Tea 5.7R that starts left of Bon Voyage)

P2) Move out left and head for some black rock passing a bolt, then tricky moves(#2 or 3 Wallnut/Rock helpfull)get you to the bolt belay for the climb PG Tips. Carry on past this anchor for another 50ft to a higher bolt anchor. 180'5.7

P3)Continue climbing left past three bolts to double anchors on top of large block. 160'5.7

P4)Continue up and then move left past first bolt. Then straight up past bolt to ledge. Clip another bolt to protect your second then walk along ledge to double anchors.170'5.8

P5)Some steeper climbing with a short section of not so great rock but well protected by 3 bolts lead to a one bolt and horn belay. 200'+ 5.7
Second will need to move up 15ft of easy ground for to reach belay.

Descent:-Scramble up and along the ledge for about 150' to an open area above the ridge. Here is double rap anchors (115')to the gully that leads back to the bottom of the canyon. Can also be done with a 70m rope. Watch the ends, its close.
Register just above the rap anchors.


Walk to the far end of Two Fingers. The climb starts on the right about 50ft past the No Faith/Reef Sport Climb Slab.
It follows an obvious brown/white streak about 25ft below where the slab junctions with the vertical wall. The first anchor is visable from the ground.


Cams 1/2" to 3"set of stoppers. Two 60m ropes or a 70m rope.

Photos of Bon Voyage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route .Looking across from the descent ridge
BETA PHOTO: The Route .Looking across from the descent ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of the climb with the Henry Mts ...
View from the top of the climb with the Henry Mts ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo starting P5
Shingo starting P5
Rock Climbing Photo: On the belay of P4
On the belay of P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy higher on P1
Andy higher on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Back to Borrowdale
BETA PHOTO: Back to Borrowdale
Rock Climbing Photo: Dawn the morning after
Dawn the morning after
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Higher on P3
Paul Higher on P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul starting P3
Paul starting P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy topping out on P2
Andy topping out on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy following P2
Andy following P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher on P2
Higher on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Shingo on P2
Shingo on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route looking up from the canyon bottom.
The Route looking up from the canyon bottom.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy following P3
Andy following P3
Rock Climbing Photo: The night after ... Here we go again!
The night after ... Here we go again!
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 ..The real Sandstone Alps
P3 ..The real Sandstone Alps
Rock Climbing Photo: Breakfast with the Eastern Reef locals. Marea, Lan...
Breakfast with the Eastern Reef locals. Marea, Lan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Higher P4
Higher P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Carson & John Bald on Pitch 4.
Scott Carson & John Bald on Pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy starting the first pitch
Andy starting the first pitch

Comments on Bon Voyage Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Mar 19, 2013

Paul, I'm sad to see you go.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 20, 2013

Thanks Perin ...Its been a great experience ...The desert has been a superb place to explore....wish I had done it when I was a wee bit younger.. now its back to the damp but beatiful Lake District and old friends....
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 20, 2013

Best wishes Paul. I've had some great adventures climbing your routes.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 21, 2013

Thanks Andrew...Maybe UK one day ?
By grk10vq
Mar 22, 2013

bon voyage pr! may the internet be strong in the UK.
i mean, who else will call people out for their lack of
adventure and chest pounding sport skills? ~thanks
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 22, 2013

Thanks grk . Pulling up on one finger a couple of feet above a bolt is nothing compared with the risks involved in a true climbing adventure... rock or alpine... An experience that is about life itself..two sports that are now many many miles apart.I guess to each his own...
By Mike Kinney
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 26, 2013

Thanks Paul for all the fine lines you’ve established at the Swell. One of my favorite places for a magnificent wilderness experience…gotta love those runout slabs!!!!
By tom303
From: Colorado
Mar 29, 2013

Paul, you are an inspiration to so many of us. Thanks for all your hard work!
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 4, 2013

Well I am now back in the UK..Thanks chaps for your nice comments. I really loved the desert and hope you all have a great time exploring its wonders. You are very lucky to have so much adventure just there for the taking... do not take it for granted.. it is far more rewarding than clipping bolts on sport routes or jumping on usual just winding you up.. or am I? ... All the Best... Paul
By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
Dec 10, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

This was a really fun and exciting adventure. The first pitch had a lot of bad rock but then it got better. The second pitch was the scariest pitch to lead with the crux being 50+ feet past the first bolt before you clip the anchor at the top of PG tips and a big pendulum fall if your feet slip (exciting). After that the climb had bolts protecting all the hard parts. We would rate the climb at P1 5.6, P2 5.7R, P3 5.8, P4 5.9, and P5 5.8. We did not use any wires/stoppers on this climb I would lighten my rack and take a single set of tcus (#00to#3) and camelots (#.5 to #3) with a double on the #3 cam and # 3 tcu if you have it. 10 to 12 draws and slings. Thanks Paul, Andy, and Shingo for the great adventure climb.

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