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Sabbatical Wall
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Bon Voyage 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: Faces NorthWest
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 22, 2008

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Description 

Clean moves on clean rock. Thin hands to thinner than that. Small people will find both the jamming and slot contortions easier than big people. Start in a left-facing corner with 1.5" gear (easier than it looks) and climb up into a flaring slot with 'forever' of thin hands jams to a wide spot. Pull the wide section to a good rest and finish up top in a 1.5" crack that is harder than it looks. Finish and clip before you run out of gas!


Location 

Left a good ways from the approach trail and beyond a HUGE right-facing corner that forms an entire section of wall. There is a small plaque at the base, but it is still easy to walk right past this climb and not notice it until you reach 'Workin Man (11-)' and look back 40 meters into the obvious dark corner.


Protection 

Lots of cams from 1.5" to 2.5" with emphasis on 2". Take a #4 friend or larger equivalent for a middle section that is wide and save some thin cams for the tea-cups up top.



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By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Nov 11, 2012

this thing is 5 stars all day crisp fun OW half way up..... find yer way to this climb an rock it .. i think this is the best 1.5 2.0 inch crack in the creek !!!! an that's a mouth full