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Flying Squirrel Buttress
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Bombs Away T 
Flying Fortress T 

Bombs Away 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 310'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Forrest Gardner, Peter Henley - 1985 FFA: Mark Cartwright, Todd Wells - 1999
Season: Fall and Winter
Page Views: 2,604
Submitted By: Amy Denicke on Nov 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Double rope rappel (we used a 60 and a 70) gets yo...

Description 

Who would have thought you could do an alpine climb in Tennessee!

P1: Scramble up on a small ledge, climb a right-facing flake, then step right and climb to an alcove beneath a bulge. Squirm throught a slot in the bulge, angle right to a vegetated ledge. Walk approximately 30 feet to the left on a very narrow ledge to a solid root on a cedar tree and belay (5.8) 140'.
P2: Move left from the belay and climb loose and crumbly rock for two or three moves, then move right below a huge right-arching corner on good rock. Angle right, pull an awkward overhang and belay on a solid tree (5.8+) 100'.
P3: Head up towards the large roof for a couple of moves then gingerly move left onto the face of the buttress on various sized blocks. Be careful as some of the blocks are loose. Climb left of the roof to a live tree on the top of the buttress (5.8-) 70'.

Location 

Located on the Flying Squirrel Buttress. Start: 50 feet to the right of the orange rock on Flying Fortress (5.10a). A double rope rappel is needed to reach slings on a tree at the top of the first pitch. A total of two raps are needed from the top. Killer hanging rappel from the roof top.

The Flying Squirrel Buttress can be seen about 1.1 miles up the canyon road at a large pull out on the right. Scramble down the hillside, cross the creek and make your way up to the buttress easiest way possible.

Protection 

Standard rack with some smaller sized cams. Nothing larger than a #3 BD cam.


Photos of Bombs Away Slideshow Add Photo
Start of Pitch 2
Start of Pitch 2
the rap was fun!! a cold early-january day.
the rap was fun!! a cold early-january day.
A fun hanging rappel from the top
A fun hanging rappel from the top
We replaced the slings at the rap station on P1 wi...
We replaced the slings at the rap station on P1 wi...
Start of Pitch 1
Start of Pitch 1
View of the Flying Squirrel Buttress at the road.
BETA PHOTO: View of the Flying Squirrel Buttress at the road.
View from belay on pitch 3
View from belay on pitch 3
On P2,after following the off-width up and right, ...
On P2,after following the off-width up and right, ...
Start of P3...good quality rock right off of the b...
Start of P3...good quality rock right off of the b...
3rd pitch
3rd pitch
Working the 2nd pitch
Working the 2nd pitch
Amazing southern sunset from the top of the route....
Amazing southern sunset from the top of the route....

Comments on Bombs Away Add Comment
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By ChillFancy
From: Chattanooga, TN
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First off, I would like to thank Amy and all of those who came to this route before us. This route is gold for any aspiring adventure climber. As far as total height is concerned, P1 is around 90, and P2+P3 are around 160, making the route around 250 ft tall. With that said, the actual distance climbed is probably over 300ft. I found several distinctive cruxes but route finding can be just as challenging as the cruxes. Love this climb, despite several sections of choss/lose rock.
By DaveJD
Jan 11, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We just recently did this route a few days after some rain. The creek can be crossed if you have the necessary river reading skills and dont mind taking your pants off to cross(Dont get yourself killed). Pitch 1 was partially wet but very climbable and had really neat sequences with quality rock. Pitch 2 starts off with extremely loose rock for the first couple of moves and then turns into the highlight of the climb with a solid face with horizontal cracks and underclings in a somewhat exposed arch. Pitch 3 was somewhat confusing in terms of route finding, but it can be climbed nearly all over that face of the buttress. Extremely loose rock here for nearly the entire pitch, be very careful as to what you pull on.

We had difficulty finding the rap station on pitch 3. We assumed that someone removed any sort of gear that was up there. We rapped off the tree above the large ledge with a sling and biner. If you head up there bring along some webbing. The rap station on top of pitch 1 is bomber.

The pictures really did help and this climb is pretty fun so dont let the loose rock and approach turn you away.
By Chad_N
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jan 10, 2015

Did this today, fun multi-pitch climb. We boulder hopped the river as it was kind of low after several days of no rain. We saw it was raging, near waste deep whitewater a week or so before, luckily we chose the TWall that day. Got to the route and ice and water seeping all over the cliff, it was early January. The majority of the ice and wetness was just off route. We rapped right down it though. Very cool alpine feel. Sun was hitting the west facing wall all day between noon and 5:30. The climbing was fun & varied, the starting flake was a good warm-up, the slot was challenging and fun, 2nd pitch was good corner and face along with a couple of cool ledges and 3rd pitch continued to be fun and exposed. Some loose rock sure, but feel around and you'll stay on the good stuff. Did not see a rap station at the top so we left some webbing and a ring. The P1 red webbing is still there and good. Left a large hex at the start of P2, pm me if you want to return it.
By eli poss
From: Chattanooga/Durango
Jan 11, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed with chad, first pitch was alright (flake and slot were icy so it was painful) but the 2nd and third pitch were great. 2nd pitch was great after the awkward first couple of moves. lead the 3rd pitch and it was awesome. great exposure, gentle overhang, plus could've done it on all passive (i used tri-cams .25, .5, 1, and #1 Camalot but could've used at 2.5 tricam if i'd had one). great quality face climbing on stacked blocks and horizontals, wish it was longer.