Bombodido  5.10a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000 Submitted By:  Bill Olszewski on Dec 29, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Larry Rossi high on Bombodido.

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Description 

Start in a wide, right-facing corner and get your off-width on. The first clip is about 15’ up and can be awkward, depending on your position in the squeeze chimney. Exit the chimney onto the face to the left and use a variety of technique, offwidth, jams, and face holds, to propel you upward as the crack narrows. As you get to the double cracks, favor the left side as the right crack turns into a questionable, undercling flake. The undercling at the left side of this is solid but farther to the right the flake is real sketchy and could break off, and it’s pretty damn big! Continue moving up and right on the face to a high crux, above the flake and to the right of a short offwidth section, until you reach the anchor.

Per Bob Robertson: there's now a Direct start. You no longer need to do the offwith at the start. The new start has 5 bolts and is just left of the original start. For the total climb, you now need 9 bolts and the anchor. Also, the loose blocks encountered while lowering off have been removed. This direct start was done by Carrie Robertson and Reggie Slavens.

Location 

Bombodido is the wide crack between Politically Incorrect and The Book of Dude-Aronomy.

Protection 

8 bolts/shuts, cold shut anchor.

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Larry emerging from the squeeze chimney.