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 ADVANCED
The Bookend
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Feud T 
Bombay Chimney T 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 
Corinthian Column T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Grovelly Chimney T 
Handbook T 
Hot Licks T 
Knight's Gambit T 
Knight's Gambit Variation T 
Labor of Lust T 
Orange Julius T 
Pineapple Juice T,S 
Sicilian Defense T 
Sorcerer T 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 
Southern Cross T 
Strawberry Short Cake T 
Summer Festival T 
Sun King T 
Tarantula T 
Treebeard T 
Truth T 
Unknown Chasm T 
Wide Gauge T 
Winds of Fortune T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bombay Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Filip Sokol and Del Monte, 1968
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Erik Corkran on May 30, 2001

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Description 

This is the farthest left of the major chimneys on the Bookend, very noticeable from the ground. The crux is sustained though most of the route is much easier. A fun route for those who enjoy chimneys (hopefully there are still a few of us out there).

P1. Climb crack/dihedral system (mostly 5.4-5.6) about 80 feet to the base of the main chimney. Climb about 20 feet up the chimney / crack to a nice stance (5.8?).

P2. Climb the deep flare for about 120 feet. This sustained and fun chimney pitch protects well with normal gear on the inside. 5.8, 120 feet.

P3. Continue up much easier chimney system with many ramps and features inside to another good stance.

P4. "Walk" through to where you can join the main wall to the summit, or pick a variety of other mostly-easier but fun options. Climb low 5th class rock for 150 feet to the top (this can be pitch 5, depending on what you did for pitch 4).

Protection 

Standard rack, no giant gear needed, though a #3.5 Camalot (and maybe a #4?) was useful. Stoppers useful also.


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